Thread: Castor Correction - swivels or radius arms

Originally Posted by Defender200Tdi

Yes, I agree. But I suspect on the standard setup for a Landrover, they aren't even parallel to start with. Wasn't this the reason Landrover came up with the out of phase bodge for the uni joints at the front? In any case, lifting the suspension probably just makes a dodgey arrangement even worse.

Paul

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

they aint on the limits but they are near the optimal angles..

ujs will drive though a bigger angle than a CV buuut...

.

Sorry that wasn't quite worded clearly. What I meant is wot you said.
I meant that LR prop shafts are right on the edge of giving vibration problems, ah la setting the joints out of phase as Defender200Tdi had said. Yes, anybody who's played with IFS trying to get more travel has very quickly found the limits of the range of movement of their CVs for sure.

what sort of angle is the bottom mount for the front shock on??

this is another ''to do '' job, once ive finalised my spring heights and rates..



cheers phil

At the White Motor Corporation plant in Brisbane,we went to a lot of trouble using a level slab, protractor sets, engineers levels, plumb bobs, centres, measuring tapes, wedges, shims to ensure that trucks had equal angle driveshafts, tandem drives square to the chassis, and to the front axle, and equal overall and internal wheelbases each side. A truck could not leave the plant until this was done and measurements recorded on the vehicle build sheet. Try doing this on your LR and be rewarded by improvements in driveline life, performance, and lack of vibration.

Originally Posted by discowhite

this is another ''to do '' job, once ive finalised my spring heights and rates..



cheers phil

Looks about the same as mine! Suppose I will have to cut an reweld the bottom spring mounting plate!

Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm

Yes, indeed. Quoted verbatim from Qld. Transport " The welding, chrome plating, heating or bending of axles, suspension and steering components, as a method of repair or alteration, is not permitted".

Such an alteration or repair technically renders the vehicle unroadworthy.

Think of unscrupulous insurers who love to find an excuse to reject a claim, or slick lawyers apportioning blame in a damages case. "Dangerous, unroadworthy, illegally modified vehicle, irresponsible 4WD hoon". "Your Honour, we ask substantial damages and a period of imprisonment".

Exactly. Its probably a better method to lift, change the front propshaft over to a DC shaft with the DC at the transfer to sort the vibrations and use slotted steering balls to correct the caster.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

1. as ujs get more bent their efficiency goes down, Cv's not quite so much
2. as Ujs get more bent they introduce driveline speed oscilations, cvs dont
3. as Ujs get more bent the wear quicker, cvs not quite to so much
4. Ujs are cheap, Cvs aint
5. Ujs dont mind water and dust Cvs DO
6. Changing a pair of ujs is an hours work on a good day.. CVs.....

Also the more angle you put into a CV, the weaker it becomes.

Originally Posted by oldzook

I believe it is this plane that the included angle is critical.


A double cardan joint is basically 2 universal joints coupled in close proximity.
A constant velocity joint is different again.

The Yanks call a Double Cardin joint a CV joint, and they seem to call CV joint Birfs or something.

I also understand its good practice to not run unis at 0 degrees but just slightly off this to keep the bearings in them moving and prevent pitting.

Originally Posted by LROV90

Hi,

Having now lifted my 90 about 3 inches I need to correct my castor, thats now sitting at about -1 deg. I have already fitted both front and rear d/c shafts to get rid of most of the vibrations. I don't wont to really move the pinion angle from where it is now as it suits the d/c shaft fine - making corrected swivels the best bet. However the front springs and shocks are sitting on a fair angle as the diff has rotated foward so I wouldn't mind correcting this also - making radius arms the go!

Suggestions??

Wot the D/C shafts cost ya and where did you get em..TIA