Thread: Replacement 4.0 V8 for 2002 update Disco

I thought they only changed the headlights and grill in the update not the engine. If you spend the $9000 at least you'll get a few more years out of the engine before it needs the next rebuild

I though the difference in the engine was that it uses the bosch gear and has a higher compression. but i'm no expert so i could be wrong.

I am no expert on Land rovers, but using second hand parts as long as you get them checked properly isnt a problem in all the motors I have been involved with. Except of course for bolts and bearings. I personally would take the chance to get a solid motor built if you cant do it yourself and get after market crank, rods, pistons and camshaft. Usualy u can get away with crank rods n pistons, just get new bolts and bearings. It is always an opportune time to upgrade tho and a new camshaft to suit your driving style and requirements is a worthwhile investment.

As I said I am no expert on Landy's as I am a recent convert to the green oval and most of my experience is on heavy Diesels and my hobbies with Ford and Chev V8's. The important thing is to get your original parts (if you plan on salvaging any of them) checked properly if you intend using them again. $9K sounds pretty expensive, it would be worth speaking to a decent engine builder and get a quote from them. I have been involved with building 500HP Chev motors for dirt circuit cars that only cost around that coin and Clevo 351's for around the $12K mark.

How much are threy asking for a new block?

I'm not sure theres too much difference in years apart from compression,,

where are they all??

USA,,

around 10 to 1 diesels to V8s in Oz,,,

.

Originally Posted by PLR

G`day

Even with i think it`s 90k on yours if its dismantled it would need rings bearings and seals ( short block ) to be done bestly .

These parts wouldn`t show much wear but would be some .

If it were mine i would have top hat liners fitted to the block .

These seal at the top and bottom of the block and it doesn`t matter if more cracks occur because the fluid can`t get into the sump or combustion chamber .

Another option is to have O rings fitted to the heads but because of the way the factory liners are fitted they may or may not work . ( won`t go into why )

I have two 4.0 s , one in the car , one in a crate in the shed .

The shed one is from a 98 P38a it has had one top hat fitted but the liner beside has also leaked . Its first failure was at 100k second 130 k

The one in the car was a new crated short , i don`t expect it to fail because it is not in a P38a or a D2 .

It is an 8.23:1 pre bosch but other than the actual pistons is the same as your D2 engine as is the shed engine .

The crated engine cost $2000 delivered around 3.5 yrs ago .

I know of a bloke on another forum that bought a crated high comp short for $3500 .

I felt mine was a good price at the time because prices for s/hand 3.9s were around $1800 and of coarse they were used and how used couldn`t be told untill starting .

If i were in your situation i wouldn`t use a new or s/hand factory engine because there is always a chance the smae thing can happen but then i`m able to do most myself and my labour is cheap .

You will get a form of warranty with both but it won`t be a 100ks and if it happens from what i`ve learnt it seems to be around those Ks if it`s going to happen , unless they are overheated and then it can be from any time after that .

There is one good thing about your problem and that is that the cam may shortly if not already need replacement because these seem to often need replacing at around 120k .

The above is what i have learnt been told and my opinion .

Cheers

I agree about the 100k lifespan, I have known of 2 that needed re sleeving at around this milage.

Have you discussed options with a specialist, eg Graeme Cooper,LRA. I am sure that they are seeing more and more of these!!

I am confident it would be quite safe to use your crank,rods,pistons etc,if you/they can get a block with the correct bore size. The only question would be the pistons.

Also, to resleeve the block with flanged sleeves would be a good option and would prevent the leaking sleeve problem happening again. This would be the avenue I would prefer if this happened to my car. BUT you are arguably up for more labour with this solution, but it still should not cost $8K.
A dealer will not present you with this option as it is not in their mindset.
I would avoid a second hand engine as you do not know where its been, and it only has to be overheated once for the same problem to occur.

Regards Philip A