Not yet. I'll make a call on Monday and find out.
Hopefully not too much, I hate spending money.
Scott
Hi Steve
Easy solution
Fit air lockers front/rear you can hang tyres in the air and brag
Andrew
DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
I made the 1 millionth AULRO post
If you have a couple of freebies I can have I'll be only too happy to oblige.
Acutally after having a long think about this I was thinking I'm going to remove the shocks and jack up the RR by the chassis. However much the front end drops by that's the length of shock I should get. Then adjust the mounts and/or springs to match.
Does that sounds as if it should work ok?
http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/OFF_ROAD/HD_Suspension_Parts/Rear_Shock_Absorber_Top_Mount_Dropper_Kit_(pair).h tml
wack a set of these on for droop, then you dont need to buy longr shocks..but dont forget the extended bump stop
http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/OFF_ROAD/HD_Suspension_Parts/Extended_Polyurethane_Bump_Stop._Front_or_rear._Al l_Range_Rover_Classic,_all_Defender,_and_Discovery _1_to_LA081991_(i.e._not_300TDI).html
Jacking up at the chassis will not tell the whole story.
You will not get full bump travel for one. You can't get the bump travel from hitting a bump at speed.
Due to the height of the centre of gravity, when on a steep slope a fair bit of weight is transferred from the uphill to the downhill axle. This changes the load on the springs and their travel/articulation.
A travel ramp will give results closer to reality, compared to jacking under the chassis.
Lastly, IMHO this is taking a too simplistic approach. Presuming that your shocks are limiting articulation.
It is possible that there are other factors, such as springs (spring rates and free lengths) and binding at suspension bushes (which can be corrected to some extent).
And when you are cross-axled, a very flexible rear will articulate more, at the expense of front axle articulation. This is not as desirable as balanced articulation, because it results in a transverse shift of the centre of gravity (very undesirable on cross slopes).
So does all this mean that i'm gonna get into trouble if/when i fit a 3" suspension lift (taller springs and matching shocks) to my RRC? Does everyone who's every done a 2 or 3" lift have to consider ALL these things, or just the ones that want height AND massive articulation. What happens if you walk into a shop and ask for a lift kit? Do they run thru all this, or just do it? I bet they won't move your bump stops or shock mounts...
This is all very similar to the thread i started a week or so ago, but i'm in here cos i'm still confused.![]()
nice site, springs for 10 pounds each !
Shame it's in the UK
Those shock extenders look good but I wonder about the legalities here is WA you know how the road traffic dept is !
Bulldog .... if you go to a reputable place I'm sure they will advise you well. I am just moaning/having a hard time because I fitted 30-40mm lift springs to standard shocks. A bad move in my opinion now. You will get matching springs and shocks.
You may also want to check on the legalities of a 3" lift in your state, (if it bothers you) in WA 2" lift is the legal max without an eng. certificate.
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