Specialist tools.

Im not going too far into depth on these...
Attachment 2945

Attachment 2946

Attachment 2949
These are your sockets, ring spanners, open end spanners, screwdrivers, pliers, knives, multigrips, hammers, scribes, alen keys and vice grips... your absolute basic tool kit should have all of these (not as many as whats in the pic tho all these pics are from one board which is ment to support 4 mechanics)

for spanners and sockets you should have metric/imperial to suit your vechicle if not both. Dont try going the 1/2 inch is the same as 13mm, they arent, theres a good 1/2 a mm difference and you will damage things.... If you dont know measure first and then get the appropriate spanner... For bolts most imperal bolts will have at least 3 radiating lines on them like spokes and all metric have at least one number stamped on them (usualy 2 digits with a . eg 8.8 many have a second one like M10 this indicates that the shank is a 10mm nominal diameter NOT the size of the head.


Screwdrivers are pretty self explanitory use the one that completely fills the socket of the screw head you should have about 5 flats and 5 phillips without counting the sparky ones that have the inuslated shank or the ones in the "jewel" case.


you should have about 5 sets of pliers side cutters for electrical work, bull nose combination pliers for working with fencing type wire or coathangers, normal needle nose pliers for working with small pins/split pins, offset needle nose pliers for the same thing where you just cant quite get the normal needle nose and the optional parallel jaw pliers which are great for clamping small parts that need to have a direct closing action applied and not a levering closing action petrol EFI injector clips are a good example.

And most imporantly is the hammer... you should have 4. 1 little engineers ball pein hammer, a bigger one of them, a plastic faced or rubber faced striking hammer (not a rubber mallet) and a Rubber mallet. when working with hammers USE THE SMALL ONE FIRST.... a lot of short sharp hits with a little hammer are less likely to break bits than an almighty whollop with the sledgie. They are also easier on the heads of drifts and chisels than oversized hammers and most importantly they hurt less if you miss and get your finger.


If theres anything up there I missed let me know and I'll do a quicky post with detailed pics of it later.

What is it? its a special type of socket wrench that gives and audiiable/visual indication when a preset tension is applied to it.

Who should have one? Every one.. yes even the guy who only uses it to change his tyres.

Hows it work? well that kind of depends on which of the 3 you buy..
Attachment 2951
The first is common, its fast, its bidirectional, its a bit of a pain to set and it ratchets. Its the ratcheting, self resetting torque wrench...To set it you adjust the micrometer like spindle at the handle end, this adjusts the preload on and internal spring and then when you apply turning force (AKA Torque) a pin held in place rides up and over a ridge and clicks, the handle then "flicks: about 5 degrees letting you know that your at the right tension. when you return the handle to center the pin resets and your good to go again. It also has a ratchet head so you can tighten LH threads as well. These torque wrenches are the most forgiving to use and good ones hold their calibration really well. Setting the scale on the bottom does take a little getting used to. you can buy these ones almost anywhere. This is the one I recomend for home workshops.

Attachment 2954
The next is almost as common as the ratcheting torque wrench isnt self reseting isnt ratcheting and isnt bi directional its the deflection beam torque wrench.(very top of pic) this is simplicity itself to use, simply undo the thumbscrew holding the wedge slide it till the little flat "t" is inline with the setting you want, depress the pin that pokes out of the beam and pull. The big advantage of these wrenches is the ease with which they are recalibrated, and they need to be, knocking one, variations of temperature, some dolt using it to undo nuts or tighten left hand threads will throw one of these out of whack... This is the one I reccomend for mechanics..

The last (and i dont have a pic of one) is the deflecting scale torque wrench. it works on the same principal as the deflecting beam but has an arc scale in place of the wedge and a thin pointer beam in place of the deflection beam. you pull the handle, the pointer stays in place and the scale moves under the pointer, they are not usually used for lots of torque but are bi directional and are just the ticket for measuring roatational torque between 5 and 30 ftlb.
Id only reccomend one of these to someone who was rebuilding diffs/gearboxes for a living and needed to asses the preload torque on a shaft on a regular basis.

Is there any thing I can use in its place.... Yes a spring gauge and a known lenght spanner will allow you to do the same thing...

torque is expressed as effort x distance.. 1 ftlb of torque is the eqivilent of 1 pound of weight pulling down on a spanner 1 ft long from center of rotation to the point of effort....Given that 1ftlb of force will also be developed by a 2 foot long spanner with half a pound of force applied, ditto 2 pounds on a 6inch spanner.. Want it in metric? simple replace ftlb with Nm, pounds with Newtons and foot with Meter.... the math is the same, the names change. (1ftlb is not the same as 1Nm tho...)

the reason for having a torque wrench becomes important when things have to be the same. could you imagine what would happen to your engine if 2 head bolts were finger tight 2 bolts were done up to just shy of snapping and the rest where who knows where.

All items that require tightening down with a torque wrench (infact almost antything with more than 2 bolts on it) will have a specified tensioning sequence... and the motto for tensioning is "in sequence in stages."

first the sequence theres 4 types of patterns youre likely to find

1. Circular, like wheel nuts
2. square/rectangular perimeter, like the bolts that hold the sump on the engine
3. staggered rows, like head bolts
4. 4 square, like the swivel pin bolts

in order the rough guide for tensioning bolts is

Circular, pick a bolt lable it #1 move to the bolt most immediately opposite it thats #2 go to the bolt next to #1 that is furthest away from #2 (try it on a landrover wheel youll see what I mean) and repeat till you run out of bolts. thats the sequence. on something that has an even number of bolts when you go back to bolt 1 pick left or right and then work the same way all the way around. (this should be in the tyre changing section of your users manual)

Square perimeters, Simple start in the middle of the longest side and thats bolt 1, the bolt in the corrisponding opposite side is #2 then the middle on the shorter sides is 3 +4, move one bolt left or right of bolts 1,2,3,4 and they are in turn 5,6,7,8 then leap frog back over 1,2,3,4 and thats bolts 9,10,11,12. what your aiming for is to tighen the middle of each side and then squeeze the plate down so the 4 corner bolts are the last ones you do.

Staggered rows If you dont have the template for an item you can use the generic rule of inside out in circles put your finger on the bolt closest to the center and call that bolt 1 then move your hand around in ever increasing circles and each time your finger crosses over a new bolt lable that bolt with the next number.

and 4 sqaures is easy, pick a bolt, thats #1, the one furthest away from it is #2 #3 is the one closest to #1 and #4 is next to #2.

If thats confusing I'll draw or obtain pics and post them...

naturally removing these items is a case of counting backwards.

thats sequence the next bit is in stages... IF you have to do a bolt up to 600nm theres no point doing one bolt up to 600nm while the rest arent even finger tight, thats how heads get warped, wheel discs get out of alingment and blance and stuff gets busted. you should do all bolts in stages... about 1/3 or near enough at a time...(the torque angle method is different and will be addressed later) so my 600nm wheel nuts would be tightend in sequence to 200 then 400 then 600 nm. The same goes for loosening. crack the bolts back a little (about 1/4 a turn, then back them off another 2/3 to full turn then remove them)

Take care of your torque wrench. if its out of whack you could be overtightening or under tightening all your bolts.. The jury is still out on which of those 2 is worse.

Attachment 2955

These are used for the new type fasteners thats starting to hold land rovers together and as filler plugs/sump plugs....

These are not the only type... theres litereally a hundred different variations on the allen head bolt/screw they're all propriety and they are all STUPID... They force you to buy tools to do maintenance or go "oh dear I dont have that bit I'll have to take it to the workshop and pay to have it fixed". The concept of them as a security device is laughable... 30 seconds with a battery drill and they are done and dusted thats faster than I can get them out with hand tools. (and air ratchets on the longer ones)

ATM landrover only seem to be using Torx bits (the socket looks like a wierdo 8 point asterix) and allen key head. the torx bit T55 is the one you need for an R380 sump the T35 does the door strikers and the door hinges but buy the set its almost as cheap as getting the individual sets....


as mentioned previously these things only turn up when your halfway through a job and cant work out why your allen key or screwdriver wont budge something. if you think you might come up against one of these beasties, dummy run the job and id all the fasteners, if you need one go buy the set....

What can I use in place? drill, pliers and easy outs... Drill the head off the buggers, and then use the pliers on the left over stud once the parts off or drill it just enough to get the easy out in and then easy out it out.. Throw the bugger away and fit a male square drive in the case of a bung or a normal screw anywhere else.

ok hows that for everyone?

tomorrow will see, circlip pliers, seal levers , pullers and a couple of other bulk generic shots.

Excellent - looking forward to tomorrows lot.
David

Don't forget the Noid Lites as they are the fastest, easiest, most economical way to check electronic fuel injection signals. IMO.

Can the be renamed to Black Knights Tool Kit. :D:D:D

Hell i only have a philips head and 1 shifter and i build everything.....

i should take a pic of my workshop, But as its raining i cant get out to my piece of concrete with a wall on 1 side.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by matbor

Don't forget the Noid Lites as they are the fastest, easiest, most economical way to check electronic fuel injection signals. IMO.

---

Dont got those, but then I dont generally do EFI petrols. so i use my fangdangled multimeter that when hooked up to a pc doubles as a cheap Cro.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sclarke

Can the be renamed to Black Knights Tool Kit. :D:D:D

Hell i only have a philips head and 1 shifter and i build everything.....

i should take a pic of my workshop, But as its raining i cant get out to my piece of concrete with a wall on 1 side.

---

Yes but you also wear a blue and white stripey apron (not that thats bad I resort to it occasionally myself)

[quote=Blknight.aus;557805]Dont got those, but then I dont generally do EFI petrols. so i use my fangdangled multimeter that when hooked up to a pc doubles as a cheap Cro.quote]

Yes, a tool you don't have :)

Very cheap, I just have one, good in diagnosing some efi problems.

What multimeter is it that you have ? or will that be a installment at a later date :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

Yes but you also wear a blue and white stripey apron (not that thats bad I resort to it occasionally myself)

---

PMSL
:D:D:D

Club Lara