if its not the bearings.......try bleeding the brakes again.......you may still have some air in the lines........
or a faulty booster.......
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if its not the bearings.......try bleeding the brakes again.......you may still have some air in the lines........
or a faulty booster.......
Booster pressure is ok. I don't think it has air in the system. It has been bled at least three times in the last month.
It could be the vaccume line pressure as I don't think it happens when the revs are up. The CDL actuator works off the line maybe there is some problem there.
I would have thought vacuum issues would only affect pedal effort, not pedal travel? How about the rear wheel bearings - are they OK? Jack it up and give the wheel a good shake with a hand on the top and bottom.
Are all the pads wearing evenly? If not, probably a sticky caliper piston which might be the cause.
nope it will effect travel, to proove it..
first thing in the morning, pump your brakes up hard with the engine off then start the engine while keeping the pressure on the brake pad.
The vavle of which i spoke earlier is typically integral to the little white elbow that comes out of the vac booster and into the vac line coming from the vac pump.
The grommet that seals that elbow in is about the most common place Ive seen for vac leaks on brake boosters that have intermittand faults
If its not doing it when the revs are up or immediately after the revs are up then the vac pump is lazy. they can be rebuilt with a little effort
I just bought some extended brake lines from the USA they are S/Steel braided top quality..but I have found a slight improvement using them aswell of which I was not expecting.. as compard to my Disco the defenders brakes are woeful...
Next buy is the slotted and drilled alround.. for a bit more stopping bite.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDawg
don't buy drilled discs, they crack. The cracks propogate radially from each drilling. Had drilled discs on a race car, they nearly let go big time.
Slotting is fine.
BTW, you US sourced hoses won't be legal... ;)
FWIW I've found that Defenders and 110's need to be either pressure or vacuum bled.
I've never been successful at bleeding these systems in a traditional manner. Never been able to get all the air out.
Could be rear bearings.
Regards Philip A
G'day Peter,
I have the same setup, only with the standard County brake booster, and I also have the same symptoms. I also have checked and bled the fluid, the wheel bearings, calipers and discs all round, and the vacuum pump is only about 18months old, and has had filtered air only during that time.
I don't think it is the vacuum because the pedal travel on the first push is more than the second, if that makes sense!.
I spoke to Jim at Brit' Off Road; he suggested changing the booster to one off a disk brake Defender, or for better braking all around, maybe a Discovery, as he has done to his own Isuzu County. The other alternative is an F100 booster, which I believe the 6be6's use, but they are rear drum, so no garantees!.
At the moment, it is not really a problem, braking is far better than it used to be with the old drums on the rear, but if it becomes more noticable, I will look at alternatives.
I would say pad knock off would be the most likely cause followed by vac leak but then I would be looking at the porting of the master cyl and push rod set up as all this can cause these symtoms.
Q1 has it done it since it was converted or was it good and then started to go bad?
By the way Dawg, is that a race car or a Defa you have there, you dont need drilled discs, if you heat them up that much Id look at your driving style it would be much cheaper but slotted I could understand to get rid of sqeel.