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Thread: which new springs 'n shocks

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    with all the kerfluffel lately about after market springs,, I'd go genuine.
    but your a woose!
    2007 Discovery 3 SE7 TDV6 2.7
    2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7 TDCi

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  2. #12
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    Jan 1970
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    atly sidestepped the issue, too
    Quote Originally Posted by incisor View Post
    but your a woose!
    notice that I neatly sidestepped the issue, too.

  3. #13
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    Jan 1970
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    Whatever you choose, don't skimp on suspension. I have come to the conclusion that good quality springs/shocks are worth all the exta $$$ you have and then some. I have used chepaer suspension components and been unhappy with the outcome overall

    As far as aftermarket springs go, Kings or Lovells are a good choice but I prefer to use LRA springs. The best part is that I can choose the rate and length that I choose for my application (a 130's requirements are totally different to the Rangie obviously). Not cheap at around $200 a pair but IMO well worth it.

    Shocks, either Bilstein or Koni for Land Rovers. I prefer Konis as the valving is a bit softer and there 3-way adjustable but each to there own. Neither are cheap at close to $200 each (can be had cheaper if you shop around) but as I mentioned, don't skimp and spend the money straight away.

    If your budget doesn't extend to good quality gear and it's not urgent, better off hanging on til you can or do it in stages (shocks first, then springs).

    Anyway, best of luck with it.

    Trav

  4. #14
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    May 2007
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    Welcome & Consider EFS, they have both coils & shocks. They make some damn fine gear.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by twitchy View Post
    Welcome & Consider EFS, they have both coils & shocks. They make some damn fine gear.
    I have heard good things about the EFS gear, good value for money as well.

    Trav

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    yep - I'm happy to wait a bit and spend on what's necessary. Front left is visibly low, (lop sided). In fact, the previous owner had a towbar put on the front (big hefty welding job) so that he could hitch up and manouvre the boat without having to look over his shoulder, so a fair bit of weight would've gone onto the front end when he was at the boat ramp. Don't know the ins and outs but that's what he apparently did.

    Rick, don't know about bottoming 'cos I haven't really put it thru it's paces although I've been on a few beaches with no apparent problem at the usual entry/exit points. As for handling badly, difficult for me to say, being new to the vehicle and not knowing how it should handle - compared to my previous vehicles (LC100 and Disco 1) it does sway around a fair bit but I originally put that down to the characteristics of the car - on 2nd thoughts maybe that is the shocks telling me they've had a hard life...doh

  7. #17
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    Jan 1970
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    OE springs are 1/2" lower LHS compared to drivers side.
    Get the thing on some level concrete and measure between the bump stops.

    With the rear it really does depend on what you are going to do with it. The OE setup is great for load carrying and work, and IMO the front rate is as stiff as you would want to go (Kings, etc are a fair bit stiffer) but if you are sporting a bullbar and winch, taller springs may help even the stance and provide a bit more travel in bump (depending on that bump stop measurement )

    With the rear shocks, whether Koni or Bilstein they will need to be re-valved, although I believe TJM and OME do a somewhat suitable rear shock for a 130, although I don't have any experience with either.

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