Heater core 1997 Disco.. DIY or Workshop ?

now that thats all sorted......i want to hear more about the minis......


where do you work....which mini do you got......

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Originally Posted by 953

Have u fixed it since?
Cheers Dean.

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No, it's still leak free with Bars Leaks

Ron

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Originally Posted by justinc

...I see. Me thinks they are masochists as there is no need to remove the whole dash, and any one in their right mind wouldn't put themselves through it:eek: Especially me. I might also add that 4 hours labour is a bit less than the time it takes to remove all the dash etc.
And just to clarify, NO CUTTING is required. everything on a D1 unbolts. The only cutting I have heard of is with a P38 heater. They ARE a dash removal job if you don't cut the Driver side support bracket .(20 hours labour as versus about 6 if you cut and weld the bracket;))

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I wish I'd known this before I took the Disco to my daughter in Derby.

I looked at replacing the heater but decided against it as the LR method was too time-consuming.

Now I'd like to know about the P38A method.....

Ron

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Originally Posted by p38arover

I wish I'd known this before I took the Disco to my daughter in Derby.

I looked at replacing the heater but decided against it as the LR method was too time-consuming.

Now I'd like to know about the P38A method.....

Ron

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Well, you need to be really friendly with a small die grinder, a 4" angle grinder and a MIG welder. I found out about this AFTER I had done one the hard way,:mad:, so unfortunately I cant tell you from experience. I can remember the bracket you need to cut though, it is on the drivers side and it is the one you look at and think " Why did they put it THERE???I need to take the heater out that way!!!:mad:"

IF I EVER do another one, I will be doing it this way.:D:D


JC

I'll have a look the next time I have the cover off from under the steering column.

BTW, have a look here: http://rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php't=9019

Ron

All,

part one of the exercise is done. I have the heater out. I agree its just a big mechano kit and its just removing the minimum amount of parts to allow you to slide the heater out.
I've just realised that the heater is continually "hot" and it just be the volume of air that controls how hot each side is...... as apposed to stopping the water going through the heater in older cars.

Anyway next week I'll ring around for a price..

Can anybody give me an idea of how much a new heater core is? Do they come with the rubber "O" rings or is that an additional part.

I'm sure like most things the pulling apart is the easy bit...
Time spent so far approx 2 hrs.:)

Darren

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Originally Posted by DarrenW

I'm sure like most things the pulling apart is the easy bit...

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Yes it is! Just be careful with the clamps on the pipes when you put it back together. If they don't close up completely, the pipe isn't in all the way and you will have a leak. A bit of rubber grease on the o-rings helps to make sure the pipes slide in all the way.

Good luck.

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Originally Posted by DarrenW

I've just realised that the heater is continually "hot" and it just be the volume of air that controls how hot each side is...... as apposed to stopping the water going through the heater in older cars.

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If this is true then I guess you don't have to turn the heater on when changing coolant to get the air bubbles out and flowing.

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Originally Posted by Utemad

If this is true then I guess you don't have to turn the heater on when changing coolant to get the air bubbles out and flowing.

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No you don't. There is no 'tap' in the heater system.

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Originally Posted by awabbit6

No you don't. There is no 'tap' in the heater system.

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Was just out playing with my engine bay and remembered the vacuum operated tap that has heater hoses connected to it. It sits on top of the driver's side tappet cover on the 3.9 V8.

Just looked it up on the RAVE CD and it is called a 'water valve'. Operated whenever one of the temp knobs is turned to heat (progressively?).
Under Discovery1 Workshop Manual section 80 (Heating and Ventilation) - Repair - Water valve.

Are the Tdi's different? Shouldn't be as that section is common to all engines I thought.