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If you rig up a good vacuum cleaner to collect any swarf while drilling and tapping you may get away with it. But the best/proper way is to dismantle.Quote:
Originally Posted by davros
EDIT - and as Rick Said - BEFORE/UPSTREAM is best. Just like sticking a thermometer in your mouth (or other body cavity :eek: ) is more accurate than under your arm.
old post.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread...&highlight=EGT
i stuck my gauge here
http://inlinethumb47.webshots.com/51...425x425Q85.jpg
and the probe here.
http://inlinethumb11.webshots.com/74...425x425Q85.jpg
cheers phil
Thanks for all the info guys
I have sent an email to Leo just waiting for a reply.
now all thats left is to convince the petticoat government that this is
absolutely necessary :p:p
whats the thoughts about exhaust wrapping on diesels?
LRH
i looked into it just after i got mine, cost $200 for a benie for the To4 size turbo. havnt done much looking into it...yet....
think its more of a petrol engine thing?
http://www.htcsafetyproducts.com.au/motorsport.htm
cheers phil
Hi all,
Just found this thread and, as my name seems to have been mentioned a few times, though I'd drop in my two cents worth.
Thanks Rick for the recommendations and posting the extract from my website "Operation" page. Thanks especially for that extract from Gale Banks about thermocouple breakages. I've not seen that one before but it backs up my arguments and thoughts on the matter - even under extreme vibration and shock loading, the internal wires in a MIMS (mineral insulated, metal sheathed) would fail long before the 310 stainless steel sheath would fracture, so a catastrophic failure is extremely unlikely.
On Td5 installations in particular, a couple of notes:
Further comments and suggestions most welcome.
- It is possible and convenient to put a thermocouple through a blanking plate over the EGR port on a Td5. However, on this engine the port is on the No.1 cylinder branch so, while all cylinders' EGT should be very similar, measurement here will really only be sampling No.1 (and maybe No. 2) cylinder's EGT. But, it's still heaps better than no measurement at all!
- The manifold can be drilled and tapped just prior to the turbo inlet without removing the manifold from the engine. I recommend the turbo be unbolted from the manifold and moved away just enough to allow the turbo inlet to be covered with plastic sheet and allow a short length of hose taped to a vacuum cleaner nozzle to be put into the manifold to extract swarf. [From memory, I think the oil supply pipe needs to be detached also but the outlet pipe can stay attached, but I'm not sure now.]
Before drilling, push a bit of rag up the manifold with a 'tail' hanging out, to prevent any swarf going back up the manifold. Complete drilling and tapping, vacuum out the swarf (a magnetic screwdriver tip can also help), than pull the rag out (don't forget this step!) and reconnect everything. All takes an hour or two depending on how experienced you are with the tasks involved. By the way, I supply a 1/8" BSPT male compression fitting for pre-turbo installations. A tap for this should be about $10 - $11 at places like Blackwoods.
Imo the important thing with the egt probe is that you do it before you modify while things are standard so as to have a base line to work from. I run mine in the down pipe have had the car from New 2004 it now runs larger intercooler. Vnt. Erg is gone I could go on but the point is the egts still max at 650 ish its done 195000. Also much easier to install in downpipe no risk to turbo etc or drill into cast manifold for that matter and then screwing a tapered thread into the cast bugger that
An egt probe after the turbo is close to useless. The temp drop across the turbo continually changes.
Baselines don't matter. Absolute temperatures do.
What Dougal said (and yes, I'm aware most tuning crowds/turbo shops install in the dump but it doesn't make it right)
Drilling and taping above the turbo isn't a biggy, just remove the turbo and grease on the bit and tap reduces/almost eliminates dropped swarf.
The exhaust side of a turbo will handle fine cast-iron swarf anyway. They deal with bigger chunks of carbon without problems.
It'll simply be blown out on startup.