Thread: Abs Light On - D1

Welcome to the world of , ' my D1 abs light is on'
it sounds a lot better than the D2 owners prob, the 3 amigos are lit up!
a much talked about subject.
The answers and fixes vary from person to person.
For a multitude of posts and answers, go to search thats the 5th box from the right on the top and type in whatever the prob is, you'll get the previous post answers. ' ABS lights' is a good starting point then work out the applicable D1 posts.
Some sugested fixes leave you that perplexed, you wonder why you have a discovery.
If you don't have a rave manual now is a good time to get one.

Having said all that, and based on my own experiences with mine.

The connector for the diagnostic is on the panel below the dash above your left shin when driving. I had mine checked by a L/R place, but it only came up with air gap on front sensors.

Codes on a D1, I don;t think they are flashing light indicated, the light comes on to show a fault only.( ie won't set the abs)

The codes come up on a diagnostic plug in check.

From my own experience, the wheel sensor leads ( on the D1) are usually the root of the problem, check the connections with a multimeter, thats how I found my problem. Front o/s sensor lead, damaged. An intermitttent fault that you had, sounds exactly the same as mine.

Rather than rehash all the previous posts, your search will come up with code descriptions and other possible causes.


good luck and have fun


john

Does the ABS pump continue to run after the ignition is turned off.

Sorry I can't be of specific help but I assume you've had a good look at the ABS sensor cables going to the brake calipers? My ABS warning light came on a few weeks ago (for the first time in nine years) and refused to go off. A brief inspection under the vehicle showed a (very tough) cable chewed in half! Fixed that and the light has gone. If yours was coming on intermittently beforehand I'd suggest opening and cleaning the connectors in the ABS cables as there may be a corrosion problem.

OOps forgot to mention
as Dave mentioned his lead was in two,
when you check them with a multimeter, have a friend help, and get them to jiggle the leads back and forth, as the break(if there is one) in the wire will sometimes only be apparent when you do this, ( mine at first was ok, until I moved them about, )



john

I had the same problem which gradually worsened until I almost rear-ended a Merc when the ABS pump went nuts and the brakes barely worked..
Now all relevant fuses and the warning light from the dash have gone, and guess what? He pulls up just fine!

After spending hours Google-ing I was able to get a code out of the ABS using only a paper clip. This proves you do not need a special reader or need to pay the Dealers exhorbitant prices.

At the moment I am getting a code 2-6 which is the brake pedal position switch. I have checked the switch & it's wiring and it seems all OK. All the instructions I have seen to date mention removing the ABS relay. I believe I am not getting the correct codes until this is removed.

My problem is I can't find the ABS Relay to remove. Does anyone know where the ABS relay is on my RHD '95 D1?

Here is what I have found. Hope it may help someone else.



GETTING THE CODES

1. Remove the relay for the ABS warning lamp.????
2. Turn on the ignition, ABS warning lamp should illuminate.
3. Connect the terminals using a wire link as shown in the diagram below.
4. Wait 5 seconds, ABS warning light should extinguish, then start code sequence.
5. Read codes as described in the Code Format Description below

CONNECTOR PLUG

Found on drivers side (RHD) just above left foot rest.
NB.It is positioned upside down.

CODE FORMAT
• Each code is made up of two series of short flashes.
• The first series indicates the Major code group (from 1 to 6).
• The second series indicates the Minor code group (from 1 to 15)
• A long pause separates each repetition.
• A shorter pause separates the Major and Minor groups.
• Code sequence begins with a 2 short flashes (code 11).
• Code Format Diagram shows code No. 32.

CODES

• Code 2-6 - Faulty stoplight switch or wiring. Fuse A5 blown or not fitted
• Code 2-7 - Continuous supply to ECU with ignition off. Faulty valve relay or wiring
• Code 2-8 - No voltage to ABS solenoid valves. Faulty valve relay or wiring.
• Code 2-12 - Front right, too large an air gap or the sensor has been forced out by exciter ring.
• Code 2-13 - Rear left, too large an air gap or the sensor has been forced out by exciter ring.
• Code 2-14 - Front left, too large an air gap or the sensor has been forced out by exciter ring.
• Code 2-15 - Rear right, too large an air gap or the sensor has been forced out by exciter ring.
• Code 3-0 to 3-9 - Open circuit in connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster, or in ECU
• Code 4-0 to 4-9 - Short circuit to earth in connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster
• Code 4-12 - Front right, wiring to sensor broken or sensor resistance too high.
• Code 4-13 - Rear left, wiring to sensor broken or sensor resistance too high.
• Code 4-14 - Front left, wiring to sensor broken or sensor resistance too high.
• Code 4-15 - Rear right, wiring to sensor broken or sensor resistance too high.
• Code 5-0 to 5-9 - Short circuit to 12volt in connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster, possible earth fault.
• Code 5-12 - Front right, intermittent fault with sensor or wiring
• Code 5-13 - Rear left, intermittent fault with sensor or wiring
• Code 5-14 - Front left, intermittent fault with sensor or wiring
• Code 5-15 - Rear right, intermittent fault with sensor or wiring
• Code 6-0 to 6-9 - Short circuit between two connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster.
• Code 6-12 - Front right, no output from sensor, sensor may have too large an air gap.
• Code 6-13 - Rear left, no output from sensor, sensor may have too large an air gap.
• Code 6-14 - Front left, no output from sensor, sensor may have too large an air gap.
• Code 6-15 - Rear right, no output from sensor, sensor may have too large an air gap.

This may help

Ladas

This is why these forums are so great.

This should sort the beastie out!!

Thanks again,

Wozz L. Gummich