Thread: Trailer hubs

this is the second time I've heard about this
Andy,,
any chance of a pic of the offending area???

Hi LandyAndy

I did a camper in late 2002 - and there was no other option then. I had the wheels machined by a wheel specialist in Slacks Creek industrial estate (south Brisbane) cost bugger all but had to remove tyres. I had to use 100 series landcruiser wheel studs as LR would not sell D2 wheel studs and trails studs are 9/16th not m14. I posted to a thread in the trailers section with a detailed explanation of what was done about two years ago and had an ‘expert’ reply saying that it would never work properly. Trailer now traveled over 50000km with absolutely no problems.

You should be able to do it with a die grinder, doesn’t need much off and it was only off one edge (inner by memory).

You can now get D2 studs, and blank hubs that are flat, but I assume that they take the smaller bearings.

To be perfectly honest – don’t think I would bother matching wheels again. After taking the advice from a tyre fitter located in the SA desert some four years ago and reducing tyre pressure to about 28 – 30psi when off the tar (flat balloon is had to pop with a biro or sharp rock, that’s his theory) I have not had a flat since – true not one in a hell of a lot of Ks. And It would seem that when I change vehicles I would have to go through that all again since LR have changed stud pattern and sizes yet again – 3 models of disco 3 completely different hubs.

My 2¢

I put D1 hubs on our camper, great idea I thought until I wanted to put some alloys on it.......

D1 stud pattern, but small studs on hub so I cant use the alloy wheel nuts, or even the steel wheel nuts .....

so I just use the nuts that came with the hubs for the steel rims.......does the job but I should really get new bigger studs, any idea what size & Length?

Would it be worth it in fact doing it?

I wouldn't machine the wheels if you ever hope to use them as extra spares for the D2.

The alloys cetre on the hub with the centre of the rim, not the wheel studs. They will never balance properly if you open up the wheel centre.

Machine the trailer hubs down to fit the wheels.

Ron

It is a little more work if you need to do it but perhaps just having matching tyre size is the way to go (assuming you carry a bead breaker or equivalent)

Most of the manufacturers seem to be changing stud patterns etc between models now and tyre sizes have exploded in the last couple of years so most vehicle/trailer combos are stuffed if you change vehicle. If they are the same size and you need an extra spare swap the carcass over. (The cost of all the stuffing around has probably cost as much as carrying an extra spare tyre anyway)

If It was to be so hard I wouldnt have gone D2 alloys!!!!!
Got tyres on the rims(4),2 of which are brand new MTRs,same size as the D2.
Ron,hubs cant be machined down,not enough meat in them,balance should be uneffected as the machining is in the centre of the rim.
I realise that the trailer rims would only be an emergency fit to the vehicle once altered.
I got 14mm tojo 100 series studs from Don Kyatt Spares,$3ea!!!!!!!
Goin down to try a rim,will take the camera.
Andrew

Originally Posted by LandyAndy

balance should be uneffected as the machining is in the centre of the rim

Andy, the hubs are located centrally onto the hub by the centre bore of the wheel, not the studs.

If, for example, one fits L322 Rangie rims to a P38A or Disco 2, even though the stud PCD and diameter is the same, the L322 wheels will vibrate as they will not sit accurately on the hub.

To stop the vibration, one has to fit centering rings to fil the gap between the hole in the rim and the outer diameter of the hub centre.

See http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_2242/article.html


Ron

Had a win.
20 mins with the die grinder and 1 wheel done.
Was much easier than expected.
Pics.
D2 steel rim with blank hub

D2 alloy and blank hub

Finished job

MONSTERING TOOL

I will include this when I start my series on building my trailer!!!!
Andrew