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Mate I think it does it's job to good,with all the friction additives the engine won't wear in.With engines too I don't think running them slow helps either,load them up and get heat into them so combustion is better.Carbon fouling happens with cold engines that run short distance's. Pat
Thanks Pat, good answer.
Pat, you have to laugh with me because I'm laughing at myself. I wear a collar and tie all week and I have to say a lot of what goes on here is well over my head:confused: (and I reckon I speak for a fair few blokes on this site).
Why am I laughing? I research and conclude that Delvac 1 will be the best for the Defender - well it's me mate and I want the best for it..........and then I hear what you say about running it in - basically, I've been too kind to it.
Certainly not disputing what you have said Pat - I'm really laughing at the way I've been pampering the Defender.:eek:
You wear a collar and tie and drive a 'fender,Barra you have made my day.Use the best oil you can afford I just think that the engine should have a chance to bed in before synthetic oils-additives that reduce friction are used.As my mechanic tells me every time he see's me ''drive it like you stole it''.He's been fixing them since '52 so he should know. Pat
Peter, what brand of fuel do you use?
Engines in farm equipment (and probably other machinery too) have a running-in oil that gets replaced with normal oil after a short period, to make the rings bed in properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by PAT303
ditto most forklifts have a 50hr run in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
Our bikes I've run on mineral oil for a good 6000k, you can really feel them loosen up and start to perform at around 10000k. SWMBO's has nearly 60000k and has never run better. Had a 1L Sierra 4wd with a brand spanker and it took about 20000k.
brand of fuel? does it matter these days? All from same refineries isn't it?Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
Normally we fill up at the local Woollies outlet (Caltex) or the Coles (Shell). there is aBP closer but they charge like wounded pigs so I give them a miss. Only time we use BP is on the highway when we stop at the mega servos.
Now though as we have a fuel card with the package we are apparantly (think the beer add) limited to Caltex servos that take the "Star Card". However there are other outlets that also accept it.
Years ago I had a preferrence for Shell diesel but trully believe there is hardly a bee's dick between any of them
My thoughts only.
I recall that my Dad used to get the donks in his trucks rebuilt, that a heavier running in oil was used, which was was dumped at about 500 miles.
With the D3 there is no mention of an early service at all, it just states at a service at 12k kms however the dealer said he would like it to come in at 5k kms which I would also prefer, as I'm on a corporate plan and it is a lease vehicle all maintenance is covered so no skin off my nose.
BP and Shell guaranty the quality of the fuel.
Caltex and Woolies provide fuel that just meets the minimum allowed quality and as the full world parity on fuel quality does not have to be met until 2011, I’ll stick with the companies that guaranty their fuel quality.
If you have been filling up on a regular basis with crap fuel, maybe it might pay you to run a couple of tank fills with some injector cleaner added to them.
Cheers
I changed all oils in my D2 at 3000 kms, after having done some running-in style driving.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter_OZ