Series III Gearbox ?????

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24th August 2007, 07:04 PM
JDNSW

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bazz67

Gday Guys
Uncleho I found this these numbers/letters on the side of the box. When I rang Brit Parts they said that it was not the numbers he required.

Birmal
576653 CA
LM22W
A

Do these numbers mean any thing to you. Photos of the gear is attached

Thanks
Bazz

The number you need is the one at the bottom left of the first picture, starting 902258... The important bit is the letter at the end which is cut off.

John
24th August 2007, 07:16 PM
Blknight.aus

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bazz67

Gday Guys
Uncleho I found this these numbers/letters on the side of the box. When I rang Brit Parts they said that it was not the numbers he required.

Birmal
576653 CA
LM22W
A

Do these numbers mean any thing to you. Photos of the gear is attached

Thanks
Bazz

Mate them numbers are the casting numbers of the box as previously mentioned the numbers you want are partially shown in the first pic and thats not a gear its the syncronisor hub and its shot, those little pads on the inside look dull and worn and it looks like the alignment teeth on the center of the drive hub have been working overtime.

You should also check the pads on the selector forks for wear as if theyve been used to try to force the syncro unit to stay engaged they and the selector hub itself will be stuffed which if you reassemble the box without repairing those parts will lead to a premature reoccourance of the same problem.
24th August 2007, 07:21 PM
Bazz67

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDNSW

The number you need is the one at the bottom left of the first picture, starting 902258... The important bit is the letter at the end which is cut off.

John

Thanks again John
A man should clean up the box a bit better, then he might see the numbers. Maybe glasses would help?:eek: 9022584 A is the number I will give Brit Parts a ring.

Thanks
Bazz:D
24th August 2007, 07:28 PM
Bazz67

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

Mate them numbers are the casting numbers of the box as previously mentioned the numbers you want are partially shown in the first pic and thats not a gear its the syncronisor hub and its shot, those little pads on the inside look dull and worn and it looks like the alignment teeth on the center of the drive hub have been working overtime.

You should also check the pads on the selector forks for wear as if theyve been used to try to force the syncro unit to stay engaged they and the selector hub itself will be stuffed which if you reassemble the box without repairing those parts will lead to a premature reoccourance of the same problem.

Thanks Dave
As it shows a beginer at work. I was really chasing a breakdown of the box so I didnt make a dick of myself ""oops to late"" The guys a Brit Parts also said the same to replacing the selector forks which will be on the cards. Any help with a break down of the box would be appreciated.

Thanks
Bazz
24th August 2007, 07:44 PM
Blknight.aus

take photos, rip a bit off, take more photos......

Thats how I learnt... I have the full rebuild manual for SIII rovers on shelf somewhere but now resort to doing it by feel.

The bits only fit one way and in one sequence and IMHO you will learn more about how it operates by trial and error than you will with the manual there to help you... (tho it is invaluable for torque, preload and lash specs)

When you build it light sewing machine oil is your friend on the syncros bearings and gears and vasoline on the detents and interlock balls and springs and shaft seals.

When its together nice and turned by hand on the input shaft it should roll like its made of silk and the syncros should snick quickly and spring into the gear.

oh happy tetris with the 3 selector forks and rods. :)
24th August 2007, 07:57 PM
Bazz67

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

take photos, rip a bit off, take more photos......

Thats how I learnt... I have the full rebuild manual for SIII rovers on shelf somewhere but now resort to doing it by feel.

The bits only fit one way and in one sequence and IMHO you will learn more about how it operates by trial and error than you will with the manual there to help you... (tho it is invaluable for torque, preload and lash specs)

When you build it light sewing machine oil is your friend on the syncros bearings and gears and vasoline on the detents and interlock balls and springs and shaft seals.

When its together nice and turned by hand on the input shaft it should roll like its made of silk and the syncros should snick quickly and spring into the gear.

oh happy tetris with the 3 selector forks and rods. :)

thanks Dave
I have been takeing pictures as i go (digi Camera :D) Great Idea using vaso on the detents I actually wandered what the type of grease was on it when I pulled it apart as they where coated with it.

Still wouldnt mind a good break dow of the box as you said torque pre load and back lash measurements will come in handy.

Thanks

Bazz
25th August 2007, 12:31 PM
djam1

Baz
I have a digital copy of the series 3 manual if you want I can burn it to a Cd for you
I am over in Karratha give me a call on 0448329492

Duane
25th August 2007, 10:13 PM
Bazz67

Quote:

Originally Posted by djam1

Baz
I have a digital copy of the series 3 manual if you want I can burn it to a Cd for you
I am over in Karratha give me a call on 0448329492

Duane

Excellent Duane I am on night shift right now will give you a call on days of .

Thanks
Bazz
26th August 2007, 06:30 AM
Blknight.aus

Assuming that his cd version is suitable I'll hold off on the dead tree addition unless you need it.
27th August 2007, 01:19 AM
Bazz67

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

Assuming that his cd version is suitable I'll hold off on the dead tree addition unless you need it.

Thanks Dave
Will chase you up if needed and thanks again.

Bazz

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