Never mind still better then me as I say if Slunnie cant no one can eheheheheheQuote:
Originally Posted by MickG
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Never mind still better then me as I say if Slunnie cant no one can eheheheheheQuote:
Originally Posted by MickG
Seeing that your shocks Slunnie are
The 6100's (B46-1361) are 25.82" (655mm) open and 15.79" (401mm) closed. They're actually a fraction larger now that the rose joints have been replaced with rubber bushes. The Patrol rears (F4-B46-1267-HO) are just ever so slightly shorter, though I don't have the measurements for them.
I was looking at the following and please tell me if im off track
All have 12mm 0r 1/2 inch heim and the measurements are not far of yours apperently Rovertym in the states uses these particular ones they will cost about 220 each plus shipping if you give them the thumbs up
Fronts Part #: AK7112SB06 Reservoir Shock - Short Body10 Inch) Valving 360/80 Shaft Diameter 14mm Extended Length: 28.06 Collapsed Length: 16.03 Travel 12"
Rears Part #: AK7112SB99 Reservoir Shock - Short Body 10 Inch) Valving 400/100 Shaft Diameter 14mm Extended Length: 28.06 Collapsed Length: 16.03 Travel 12"
there are longer lenghts also extended Length: 31.34" Collapsed Length: 19.61"
Those shocks will be too long. The springs already start to dislocate at the backs of the springs with the 655mm shock lengths, but another 2" will have the springs fall out, the front ACE hydraulic will hit the Panhard mount (prob not an issue in the US LHD spec), the watts linkage will totally bind and if you keep the standard swaybar links on, they will be too short. To make things worse, if you're running the rose joints (heims) on the front, then you need to run the adaptor that they also sell for the bottom mount and that increases the effective length of the shock further.
To get around this...
Legally in Aus you cant due to the spring dislocation. Thats never worried lots of people in the past, but just so you're aware.
For the front you would need to retain the springs, preferably at the bottom so the springs don't fall out. The rubber bushes at the top will probably work as spring relocation cones no doubt. Also, you will need to extend the swaybar links by more than 2", which probably means new links.
On the rear..
The watts linkage will bind, but they do sell cranked Watts linkages which are the next step up in modifying the suspension for extra travel. Bent links are weak, but there are a lot of people running them with and without success. The bent Watts link will probably be ok, not that I've seen or run it. You can run front swaybar drop links on the rear. You will need to retain the rear coils to stop them from falling out and you will need to add dislocation cones at the top so that they do back into place.
Also, brake and ABS lines will need to be extended a further 2"+ over the normal extension.
BTW, those rates are right on the money! Also, be aware that as the rose joints wear they will start to click, and are about $50/joint to replace.
I'm just off the phone to Bilstein. The shocks that I had listed above (F4-B46-1267-HO) are $396pr.
they do have shorter 10 inch travelQuote:
Originally Posted by Slunnie
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slunnie
Can the rose joints be changed to a different set up
Can you retain the spring top and bottom front and rear
Those ones are the GU/GQ rears. They're just a smidgen under 10" travel and rubber bushed top and bottom. I currently run these on the front.Quote:
Originally Posted by ROVERNIT
are you saying with shock that long that the front sway bar links will need to be modified alsoQuote:
Originally Posted by Slunnie
I am getting a cranked watt link also but would 10 inch shock be better