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I change my filters at 5k's and oil at 10k's.That sounds wierd but my oil is to good at 5 to change so it's just the filter.The oil light goes out straight away on start-up and I look down into the engine through the fill hole and there is no sludge on the head so I think it's all good. Pat
have quite a few Baldwin, Donaldson, Fleetguard, Ryco specs, and have posted them in the past, as well as quite a few oil specs. I'll see if I can find them.Quote:
Originally Posted by mcrover
you do realise that swapping out a full flow filter that frequently is pretty much a waste of time ?Quote:
Originally Posted by PAT303
Most full flow filters, unless using something like Donaldson's Synteq or Cummins/Fleetguard's Stratapore media don't really filter that well, generally beta2=25, beta2=30, roughly in that range. This means that they filter out 50% of 25 micron particles in the relevant ISO multi-pass test, whereas a by-pass filter (like the centrifuge on the TD5) will filter sub micron particles.
A full flow filter is really only for catching large debris as when you have a component failure. I've seen tests done where no full flow filter was used, just normal scheduled oil changes and the used oil analysis showed normal.
300Tdi and Z9 equivalent filter specs
are on this thread
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread...baldwin&page=2
a thread on some oil specs and properties is here
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread...ight=oil+specs
5000km
Ryco or Coopers filters
Shell Rimula last lot (generally buy 20l at a time when the right price at Supercheap)
Oil doesn't stain the fingers when changed so its not overloaded with carbon.
Martyn
5000km or 3 months whichever is first
Rimula
Ryco
so many variables to take into account with oil change intervals, eg. does the oil (not coolant) get to operating temp. and for how long, length of trips, type of trips (stop/start city driving vs country miles) sump capacity, etc.
If doing reasonable length mix of city/country km, 10,000km is no sweat for any quality diesel oil, hell, it's the recommended service schedule period anyway, the spec it was written for has been surpassed well and truly by CI-4 and CI-4+ oils they can't really be compared, the engine is direct injected (cleaner burn/less soot than indirect injected) and we are all using ULSD these days, dramatically reducing sulphur loading even further.
The add packs aren't depleted at 10,000km, so to my mind there is no advantage at changing out the oil at 5,000km, unless the oil never gets really hot, etc.
I totaly agree.My driving is high speed, 120k round trip to work were the engines at it's best temp range.I've been told to change it at 5k but I have also been told not to run ATF in my R380 but I haven't touch it in 370,000ks.Many people on this site have failures earlier than that. Pat
Turbos like oil changes at 5,000 Km. It's cheaper than rebuilding the turbo!