I've worked on many trucks that from new have Aerostart starting kits, which comprise 2 cans of aerostart in a container mounted on the firewall with a dash button operated solenoid and two pipes connected to the air inlet, fitted by the factory, never seen any problems with them, Regards Frank.
Glow plugs draw a fair bit of current, a few amps each, so a crappy connection is enough to stop them working. As well as the resistance check mentioned above, if they are working a voltmeter across the battery will show a big voltage drop as they are switched on.
had a probem starting my'n for a while last year and this year!!! in cold whether
everyone automatically assumes glow plugs but you dont need them till it gets real cold in fact my mate never had his wired in and he was starting his car at 4:30 in the morning in france at -17....
at first we were convinced it was a bad earth cleaned up connections even brought a new earth strap ready to change......but
found out on my'n that the live battery wire had corrosion in it knew it had for a while as it was really stiff to move around but didn't really think anything of it..... changed that and the car has not missed a beat since starts first time everytime and sometimes in the morning starts so dam quick i haven't had chance to let the key go
also might be worth checking your battery condition make sure its got enough grunt to give it that umph it needs to kick over
Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......
My glow plugs have been disconnected.
I would check fuel. Bleed the injectors to see if fuel is flowing through the lift pump. It could be a blocked gauze filter at the inlet side of the lift pump.
L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
Track Trailer ARN 200-117
REMLR # 137
in the suzi its more to do with the cranking speed required to get the air hot enough to casue combustion the pumps are always working unless the rack has been pulled to the no fuel position. Soon as you release the rack from no fuel the govenor pulls it to the full fuel position for starting.
On some Cav type pumps one of the regulator valves for the pressureisation of the main pump body doesnt begin to function until a preset flow (and hence speed of the pump) has been achieved.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Last edited by Bigbjorn; 8th September 2007 at 08:28 PM. Reason: missed a letter
URSUSMAJOR
it doesnt always cause damage to engines but it has the potential to in some cases as the fuel is in the combustion chamber as the crank swings up on the compession stroke and as it intentionally has a lower flash point than dieso it will occasionally fire before TDC and try to run the engine backwards.
IF you keep pouring it in AND the engine fires on one cylinder from the normal Dieso process IF another cylinder takes a snort full of ether you can reach a point where 2 cylinders are trying to drive the crank in both directions at once. True the ether fueled cylinder wont be pushing as hard as the diesel fuel cylinder but it gets worse. When the ether fuel cylinder gets up to the point where injection occours its already got a flame front happenin so instead of the couple of degrees of delay before useful power is made from the diesel it happens as soon as its injected. Now the cylinder is seriously trying to push back down while the crank is doing the no, go up thing. So thats bad from the piston, rod and crank POV But with the sudden rise in combustion chamber pressure during injection if youve got the old type injectors that dont run at squillions of PSI (suzis, tdi 300/200 and the old 2.25 diesel) you can get blowback into the injector that wears the injector, making it dribble and not squirt properly which makes it harder for the diesel to ignite when your engines running slowly or trying to start when its cold.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks