Thread: Auto Transmission Help!

The fact that it made the noise and would not go forward but still went in reverse sounds like the forward clutch pack in the box has unfortunately failed big time.

If this is what has happened it will mean a rebuild/swap unit and torque converter.

I hope I am wrong.

BradM

I am not sure what kind of vehicle you have??

Does you dash also display the gear that you are in and if so, does it correlate to what gear you are actually in?

Originally Posted by johnclv

I am not sure what kind of vehicle you have??

Ahh, from another thread:

BearTruck is my sixth Land Rover if you don;t count the IIA's and III's I drove in the Army years ago. BearTruck is a 1993 Discovery V8i five door, six seater in Aegean Blue with lots of extrasa, bought from the original owner a few months ago and now with 202000km on the clock. Bilsteins, air springs, dual battery system and huge sound system and even a hot water shower fitted. I plan to strip most of that off and sell it along with the bull bars, brush bars, IPF lights and huge woofer etc and bring himback to original spec. One day.

Meanwhile the auto transmission died last week so that will be a post over on another thread.

Ron

Sounds like you have worn the splines out of the transfer case input gear. You will now require a new drilled gear and a new spud shaft from the back of the auto to the new gear. You auto trans guys are lucky buggers as you don't need to replace the mainshaft of the gearbox like us poor manual gearbox guys do. Shouldn't be a big job. I would DIY.
lift the rear of the truck on the ramps for better access.

Did I forget to mention what kind of vehicle I had? D'oh! Good spotting by Ron on my intro post and thanks for the offlist email with Josh's contact details.

Also thanks for the wisdom everyone. I do believe it is indeed the spud thingy and I also agree the back wheels up the ramps should be better. I only get one go at it or else I block the driveway!

I might also do the oil and filter change I have been putting off for a month and clean the stepper motor doo dad and tighten up the heat shield and check if the IPFs are indeed in need of a new fuse as they worked before and......looks in Dictionary for definition of Land Rover, finds it next to words "work in progress". Cheers, Perry

For various reasons I am on my fourth ZF slush box in six years, only one broke coz of me. I'm not particularly impressed with the box and when the engine dies I intend to do a box & engine transplant from a gen III holden with the 4L80E towing auto. much stronger easier to get repaired sans the engine - just not an easy swap

Blythe

OK, so today I managed to buy a pair of ramps. I bought the narrower, 750kg per ramp set as I figure each ramp can take 750kg, that's 1500kg and the ramps are supporting the lighter, rear end, so no sweat! Now I need to let the car roll back a few feet and hopefully up the ramps. I lonly have three feet or so to get this right or I block off the drive (Note to self: Park the wife's Limmo on the street before ramping the BearTruck!)

I need to get down to Range Parts as Peter De Quant has promised to show me what I need to do to get the transfer case input shaft out, and the spud shaft etc. Then I will try that at home, without parental guidance!

Now,
1. am I going to get covered in transmission fluid?
2. Will I need to buy new seals or gaskets?
3. Any idea how much the parts for this operation should set me back?
4. How long should this take?
5. Any weird, special tools required? (I remember draining the gearbox oil on my '94 Defender only to find that the filler plug requires a torx splitter thingymebob, which I didn;t have but I did have an oil free gearbox. No, you can;t fill from the drain hole, not even enough to get you down to the parts shop to buy a torxthingy. You have to walk.)

I eagerly await the wisdom I hope will soon be unleashed. Cheers, Perry

more than likely your going to get covered in trans fluid

If your dropping the tcase you should replace any seal you dismember in the process

depending on what parts have let go and how frugally you want to do it up to $1K should cover a decent go-over of the tcase assuming that nothing more expensive than the shaft and primary gear have been damaged

give your self a day to get it out and rebuilt then the next day to put it back up again, it can be done faster but no points for rushing.

from memory all you need is some guide studs and a decent socket set.