Blknight,
If you want it done right you do it yourself. That way you know what has been done or what has not been done.
"The old saying still speaks for itself"
BradM
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Blknight,
If you want it done right you do it yourself. That way you know what has been done or what has not been done.
"The old saying still speaks for itself"
BradM
Take it on good authority...
Dont do your own cooling system rebuild......
Every single bloody clamp was positioned such that it could not be gotten at... I know exactly how it goes together at the factory but in the real world....... im into it for 4 hours now and IVe only just got it all flushed out and the hoses lined up to be reconnected. Im sure that its going to smell of BBQ when I drive it out on account of all of my flesh thats hanging from various engine componentry.
When you do your intercooler hoses DO NOT be tempted to position the hose clamp on the hot side of the intercooler (left hand side of the vehicle when viewed from the drivers seat) in any other position than how it was (nut on top facing the radiator) as when you tighten it up the original clamp will have the spring backing pressed up against the plastic radiator side tank. BAD JUJU. IF you use the common size clamps the big one that goes on easy is too long in the tang when clamped down and will also rub on the radiator tank... The smaller one can be made to work by unscrweing it all the way then reassembling it in position...
for all the clamps a pair of 90 degree offset slip joint pliers are your best friend.
When replacing your serpentine belt idler and tensioner you need 5 tools in total
2x 15mm off set ring/ring spanners
1x 14mm 3/8th inch drive socket
1x 15mm 3/8th inch drive socekt
1x 3/8th inch drive ratchet..
Ok this is NO fun....
to start crack the bolt on the idler (right hand side of the motor when viewed standing in front of the radiator) with the 15mm offset ringy 1/8th of a turn max at this point. Put the 15mm 3/8th socket on the ratchet and set it up for undo put it somewhere you can get to it FAST. now the swearing starts... put the second 15mm offset ringy on the tensioner pully make sure its vertical or just to the right of vertical. Push that out wards and downwards to take the tension off the belt. IT can be done with all the hoses in place and if you need to know how ask and I will describe the aerobics required. With the tension off the belt with the offset ringy undo the bolt in the idler 1 whole turn, drop the ringy and get that bugger off ASAP. once the bolts out ease up on the tensioner. Pay attention to how the old belts threaded and rethread it with the new belt now.
to remove the tensioner there is a single 14mm bihex bolt in the face of it RAVE lists it as LH thread and it aint. (wasnt on mine but the manual I have is not for my year model)
assembley is the exact reverse of dissasembly.
Oh yeah..
My intercooler was clean, a slight tinge in the diesel and a very few floaties in the 2 washes so Im happy, my EGR valve was a lot cleaner than I expected it to be and there were no major traces of the oil you all seem to be complaining about in the turbo hoses or turbo itself. and no oily residue to be seen on either side of the air inlet tract.
Im very dissapointed Not one good bearing in the wheel hubs and all of them with the same lack of grease and reused hub nut. 20 minute inspections turn into 1 hr rebuilds..
ANd I still havent finished the brake bleed, rear axle bearing replacements, replacing the harness but on the plus side all the filters bar the air filter are changed and everything is pretty much ready to go back together.
I know I know it didnt happen without pics but my digital camera has a flat battery and I cant find the charger and no way was i taking enough time out to clean up and setup everything for a phone cam shot.
Sounds like you've had a good day!
John
A vehicle is not done until you donate enough blood to it.
so far 16 bloody hours (not including going to buy the replacement hub after the easy out snapped in it but including distractions and breaks) and all thats left is the rear axle bearings and the rear brake bleed... and thats waiting till friday....
Didnt get any of the doors looked at either but the only critical one is the passangers side rear so that might get a gurnsy on friday as well.
Glad I only have to do that kind of service every 4 years or so.. those hoses are a freaking nightmare. at least the injector harness went painlessly as did the restart after the fuel filter change....
Transmission shifts better and Im using castrol Transmax this time around in both the Tcase and the main box. Nulon Red OAT in the cooling system and Castrol 0-40 fully synthetic in the donk... 80/90 in the diffs.
Run home was good temp gauge swung straight up to its same old same old position and didnt move. Id like to say that dullbirds silicone hoses made everything better but ID be lying they look nicer in there and they should last longer. On that note I had to cut about 1/2 an inch off of the one that runs from the intercooler to the manifold to get it to fit properly.
more next time around.
Maybe this is another case in favour of converting to oil lubricated wheel bearings.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
Dave, have you changed to the conventional hubnuts or stayed with the staked nut?
Ron
stayed with the stakenut for the time being. ITs easier to get and keep the preload/endfloat with just the single nut to mess with But I have to order replacements and since I have to do it all again when the rotors get a bit thinner I wasnt too stressed about it....
With all the benefits of the oil Im staying grease as the hub seal face on the inside of the stub axle is scorched and pitted from lack of lube so I have absolutely no doubt that they wont hold up to an oil seal so the grease stays for the time being...
I did naff off the spacer on the inside of the bearings tho. Which fruitcake thought that was a good idea? grease I can live with but something that means your whole hub needs to be stripped to be adjusted? I know its probabley the same fruit bat who came up with the external thermostat idea and the layout of the cooling system... If i find him IM going to punch him in the testicals I have no fewer than 12 bleeding depth nicks in my hands and I got all of them from trying to get the bloody clips of the thing.
For someone who is a self proclaimed LR expert, you seem to have alot of trouble:angel::p