Thread: td5 auto box fluid change...

Have you checked the transmission cooler fins up the front are not clogged or blocked?

BradM

last time I looked they were fine. I'll check if its blocked since then. Any recomendations on the fluid and method to change?

transmax Z,,
but get it right the first time!!
$$$$$!

the pump and drain method seems like the go,,
from where though?

Make sure the transmission oil cooler is not blocked. Be 100% sure that this is not the problem. Been in the Mud lately?

Castrol Transmax Z like Pedro says is a really good auto fully synthetic oil that you can pick up easily and if I remember also approved for the ZF box.

Apart from the sensor being faulty which I believe is not common, if it is not the trans cooler, then the more likely causes of the trans getting warm are not very nice.

If the trans oil was so low that the box is overheating then I think it would be slipping also, bringing us to a restriction in the flow of the oil through the cooler and/or box.

If you drop the oil out of the box, drop the pan as well and have a good look at bottom of the pan to see if there are bits of clutch in it. Also have a good look at the filter also and if all ok change the filter. If all is good the filter will look like new any way.

If you feel uncomfortable with the box especially since you are having the overtemp light coming on it may well pay in this first instance to ring a few very highly regarded auto shops as some have pump gear where they can force new auto fluid right through the system until it comes out clean and or maybe get them to see why the light is coming on.

It is a warning light. My ZF skills are not that high but I have rebuilt a few turbo 350, 400 and 700'S in my time.

Hope this is of some use to you.

Regards,
BradM

Used Penrite dexron 3 which was the best I could find in town. Changed filter, then used a drill operated pump to refill and ran the motor with the oil cooler return line disconected until I'd put in about 10 liters, then topped it up. Seems a bit more positive when it changes, we'll see about the overheating soon!

PS the torx bits on the filter were a %*^# to remove! Ruined a good torx bit and was afraid the fasteners near the filter outlet would break off inside the holes. Got the one through the inlet out then had to flex the filter till it tore off. With more clearance available used a pair of multi-grips to grasp and remove the fasteners.

There was a little sludge in the sump and stuck to the magnet but no "chunks" - by "bits of clutch" I guess I was looking for "bits"?

Dave

Heres something new, not sure if anyone has done it though,
popped into my local auto transmission place to see if they had a filter kit for the ZF on my car ( the late model D1)so I can do an oil change, according to mr transmission he reckoned the filters in the zf l/r's are very robust having a mesh screen and all you need to do is clean them and put them back in. has anyone ever done that???



john

see why not? Back flushed with parts cleaner it'd be fine I'd reckon. As long as you havent destroyed it like I had to!

Dave

yes mate, good point
i don't know if i should take the chance, and have the same hapen to me as to you.
I think having one here just in case will be reasonable, even a new gasket, even though mr transmission reckoned they are good for a couple of changes.

Being 15 k's from town only one car at the moment makes it a bit awkward.

i'll keep my fingers crossed.


john