Rover v8 oil Changing

Hi Frank,

The kero' mixed with the residual oil provides enough viscosity to keep things from going "metal to metal". This is also why I stated "at idle" and not whilst putting the motor under any undue pressure.

Nor am I suggesting that you take your car for a run on kero' and screw up your bearings, crank, etc. This indeed would put undue wear and tear on the guts of your motor.

The kero' mixture will allow any oily/lumpy deposits to free up and drop into the sump for draining during such a flush at idle.

Upon pouring in the new oil, it should also be allowed to recoat all surfaces at idle before the vehicle is taken for a spin.

Cheers, Pete'

The oil pump cannot lose its prime in the period it takes to change oil.
RELAX.
Look at the pump. It is all lower than the inlet and the outlet to the filter.
Over a Looong time they can empy due to leaks in the cover, or around the pressure sensor etc. After months.
So you can change it however you want.

Maybe your new 4.6 has a high lift cam and the tappets are noisier when not pressurised , or maybe the preload is greater.
By the way, I am talking about the old pre 93 oil pump. I do not know about the newer pump which is completely different.
Regards Philip A

I recall reading on another forum about someone who did the kero trick on is lovely new dirtbike for the first few oil changes and then wondering why he had pretty catastrophic failures in VERY short time. Top and bottom end dropped their guts. That particular model was otherwise VERY robust.

I'd not be doing it.

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Originally Posted by Frontier1

Hi Frank,

The kero' mixed with the residual oil provides enough viscosity to keep things from going "metal to metal". This is also why I stated "at idle" and not whilst putting the motor under any undue pressure.

Nor am I suggesting that you take your car for a run on kero' and screw up your bearings, crank, etc. This indeed would put undue wear and tear on the guts of your motor.

The kero' mixture will allow any oily/lumpy deposits to free up and drop into the sump for draining during such a flush at idle.

Upon pouring in the new oil, it should also be allowed to recoat all surfaces at idle before the vehicle is taken for a spin.

Cheers, Pete'

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You can buy flushing oil or additives to run in your engine just before changing oil and filter, it would be much safer to do this instead of kero, kero is very corrosive put some in a glass or jar and drop in a nut or bolt and see what it looks like in a week, I know you only have it in there for a short period, but it is not a good idea, try the flushing oil, Regards Frank.

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Originally Posted by Tank

You can buy flushing oil or additives to run in your engine just before changing oil and filter, try the flushing oil, Regards Frank.

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Always willing to try something new or different, thanks for the tip Frank.

Cheers,

Pete'

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Originally Posted by Frontier1

When I do a change oil and oil filter, I empty the sump after getting the oil hot, then use an old filter which I have removed in the past and cleaned out with kero' and replace that with the one that is currently on.

Then put in kero instead of oil, run the engine for about a minute or two (AT IDLE!). I have heard you can run it longer....

Then drain kero/oil residue, remove the temp oil filter and then put on the new filter and in goes the new oil.

Cheers, Pete'

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while this is a good trick and not a bad thing to do FFS be very very carefull doing it on an older engine or you can potentially kiss your old crank bearings goodbye.

I have been known to do this trick but usually I do a 3+1 mix of 10w oil and the kero 3 parts of oil and 1 part of kero...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Frontier1

Hi Frank,

The kero' mixed with the residual oil provides enough viscosity to keep things from going "metal to metal". This is also why I stated "at idle" and not whilst putting the motor under any undue pressure.

Nor am I suggesting that you take your car for a run on kero' and screw up your bearings, crank, etc. This indeed would put undue wear and tear on the guts of your motor.

The kero' mixture will allow any oily/lumpy deposits to free up and drop into the sump for draining during such a flush at idle.

Upon pouring in the new oil, it should also be allowed to recoat all surfaces at idle before the vehicle is taken for a spin.

Cheers, Pete'

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Pete,

You are game.
Kero in an older motor will destroy it.
I was brought up on a farm, my father was a qualified mechanic and I helped him rebuild motors on the farm, since I was 9 years old.
We destroyed a good motor by flushing it with kero. For some reason it can work as sandpaper and make one hell of a mess.

Flush it with petrol, but don't run it like that! Good lord, I'm getting the horrors just thinking about it.

Better still use a detergent oil for a while, then change it.

My Brothers VR Holden Statesman blew a motoe recently at 190,000km. We put a really good oil in it, where as GMH had put Castrol in it. The sludge started to move, blocked an oil channel and the rest was history..