my RRC does a similar thing I'm not sure if its the oil grade or the fact the engines done 280k, I think the oil pumps wear over time.
What sequence do people use when changing the oil on a Rover V8.
I always use to just drop the oil remove the filter, replace it with a partially filled filter, fill it with oil and then start it usually it rattles briefly gets oil pressure and all is ok.
I have a new high compression engine and this morning I changed the oil by getting it hot replacing the filter starting it getting oil pressure then dropping the oil and refilling then all should be ok.
But it did rattle a lot more than the old one use too until the oil pressure built up it was only a couple of seconds but I thought was going to kill it. Its fine now I have driven it around and it all sounds normal.
Just wondering if there is a best way.
my RRC does a similar thing I'm not sure if its the oil grade or the fact the engines done 280k, I think the oil pumps wear over time.
I never even half filled the oil filter - just smeared oil around the seal. On startup the engine didn't rattle and the oil light went off after about 2 seconds.
My engine had 100,000 km when I moved the car on - it never rattled on start after an oil change.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Shouldn't have the sump empty and the filter off.
The oil pump can lose its prime.
Martyn
1998 Defender
2008 Madigan
2010 Cape York
2012 Beadell, Bombs and other Blasts
2014 Centreing the Simpson
VKS-737 mob 7669
I drain the oil and replace the filter at the same time. I always fill the new filter to the top before fitting - just in case.
Never had an oil pressure issue and my engine is getting very tired indeed (think James Bond smoke screen...).
Let's see if I got you right, you put a new filter on, run the engine and then drained the oil from the sump, and replaced the oli in the sump. Why would you run dirty oil through your New filter, then drain the dirty oil, replace with new oil and then contaminate it with the dirty oil in the new filter, seems to be defeating the purpose of getting rid of dirty, contaminated oil.
I drain the sump of dirty oil, at the same time(while the sump is draining) I remove the old filter, replace with a partially filled new filter (new oil), wipe the sump plug, refit, fill with new oil, start engine and let idle for a few minutes, turn off, check oil level is correct, top up if necessary, check for leaks, take for a drive to get engine to normal operating temperature, check underneath for oil leaks and check oil level again, never had a problem or any rattles, I would be worried if I had rattles from engine after changing oil, Regards Frank.
When I do a change oil and oil filter, I empty the sump after getting the oil hot, then use an old filter which I have removed in the past and cleaned out with kero' and replace that with the one that is currently on.
Then put in kero instead of oil, run the engine for about a minute or two (AT IDLE!). I have heard you can run it longer....
Then drain kero/oil residue, remove the temp oil filter and then put on the new filter and in goes the new oil.
Cheers, Pete'
Tank
Yea what I read on a site in the Uk is what I originally wrote I changed the filter restarted to keep oil in the pump. Then dropped the oil, I know what you are saying with new filter old oil but I am talking an LPG engine that has more acidic issues that particle pollution. This is the first time I ever did it this way as the way the article read was that this would minimize the issues with the pump loosing prime.
The engine in question is new and it is a high compression engine I may be being a little cautious, in the few seconds that the engine takes to get oil pressure the engine is much noisier than any of the old low compression engines have ever been.
My question was really to see how other people do it thats all.
I have changed oil in Rover v8s many many times over the years without issue but this engine seems to rattle more than any of the others. As its new and I paid good money for it I was interested in preserving it as much as I could. Once its changed its perfect no noises or problems at all
The "rattling" your hearing sounds like it might be the hyd. lifters, if it is the bearings, even if it is only for a few seconds, then damage may be happening to the crank and bearings.
How long do you have the sump draining for and how long do you have the oil filter off, if you do the job in 5 to 10 minutes there shouldn't be any emptying of the oil pump requiring priming. If it does there must be a problem with the oil pump or pressure relief valve and spring, Regards Frank.
As far as I know Kero has no lubricating properties at all, engine oil has "viscosity" (thickness) which when pumped under pressure through the Crankshaft and to the bearing surfaces the oil (under pressure) forms a film (barrier) between the bearing journal and the bearing surface. So under correct operating conditions the crank journal surface and the bearing surface do not make contact. But if you use crap oil or old dirty oil that has lost it's viscosity you get metal to metal contact, depending on how frequently this happens determines how fast your bearings and crank wear out. Using Kero will destroy your bearings, it has no viscosity, Regards Frank.
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