does that mean that I have a front propshaft to replace when I get there?
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does that mean that I have a front propshaft to replace when I get there?
Here's a newy..... I had the same vibration problem, I had replaced the front drive shaft already, vibe still there as i accelerate to 100k.
Front steering bushes were the answer! My truck has 19ok on the clock:o
Jeez, the fun never ends. Do you want to borrow your Rangie. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by dobbo
Wardy, which steering bushes did you replace?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
Nah even I am capable of replacing it, I just need to get a new one to replace it with.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slunnie
It would be nice, but I cannot tow it home in low range, so you have to bask in it's beauty a few more days.
Ok
How much was your woody shaft, or would that be overkill on my car?
Had a bad vibration problem with my TD5, felt like it was running one cylinder short, L/R in Adelaide swore it was engine related, and replaced cabling. No difference. Chased the problem here in Brisbane and all L/R agencies relied on computers and also said engine fault.
Listened to a young bushie and replaced r/h engine mount as he suggested and it feels like a new car.
My car has 180k and does a lot of towing.
Thanks,it is very similar to a problem I have with my td5. I have replaced tyres ,wheels,balanced both shafts and recently replaced front prop shaft,now I will definitely watch with interest what transpires with yours!!!
It'd be overkill on your Disco, but they are cheap now due to the US dollar which may be a reason to do it. I think they cost me $1200 IIRC for 2 shafts with adapters landed. I had the adapters checked and the report was no runout in them also (I assume within some sort of tolerance). They are bigger 1310 uni joints throughout which is great if you're beating down on them, but the heavier joints will also magnify any vibration that may be in the systems due to slop in the pinion or transfer outputs etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by dobbo
I'm not sure if Tom makes standard sized DC joints etc, but if he does, then buying a new one with standard uni's may not be a bad idea. It's painful emailing backwards and forwards with him and he does respond with a lot of depth, but an internet phone card late at night gets the job done quickly and easily (ie 15-20mins). I've ordered a few shafts from Tom now, and he is quick. Next day dispatch and always on my door within a week.
Do you know what had happened to the mount - eg was it split or soft?Quote:
Originally Posted by zulu Delta 534
My clutch went through a phase where it shuddered when cold, so a mount could be damaged.
Thanks,
Graeme
The mount was leaking although you couldn't detect this from the outside when fitted. Visible signs were not really apparent to the naked eye, minimal difference in height, so minimal that most people (self included), couldnt pick the difference between my measurements and new. Not a cheap experiment though at around $350 or so per mount. I only did the one and it solved the problem (probably caused because of the extra strain applied to the right side because of the direction of the torque when power was applied when towing.)
Glen