Stage 1/county./defender/perentine brake warning

read the above post backwards but put the plates on the other side.... :p

oh ok some details....Scrub everything clean with the wire brush and clean the debry off of any surfaces that should be clean.

mount the stub axle + plate and put in 3 bolts do them up finger tight

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...007/11/283.jpg

apply 271 to the 3 remaining bolts and do them up, then undo and locktite the first 3 bolts and do them up as well 50ftlb is the correct torque setting..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...007/11/284.jpg

without compressing the slave cylider install that, loosely put in the brake pipe fitting then the 2 mounting nuts with new split washers and locktite 271, 15ftlb for the torque setting get both sides the same then slowly squeeze the pistons together and fluid will leak out the union fitting, nip that up and repeat on the other side.

Fit the springs to the shoes and then the shoes to the plate check your alignment now.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...007/11/285.jpg

If everything is correct paint a line onto all the nuts and bolts youve installed thus far, be careful to make sure that the paint bridges beweetn all the joints so that is is on consistant colour. ITs a crack appearing in this paint tat will alert you to stuff coming loose. (this pic doesnt show the slave cyl in place that pic didnt work out very well)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...007/11/286.jpg

install the hub. I use the following method for getting the bearing preload correct

1. slide it all together + seat the outer seal/bearing protection washer
2. tighten the inner nut to 50ftlb
3. rotate the hub in both directions 3 full turns
4. retension to 50 ftlb
5. spin once more and recheck 50ftlb
6. back off 90-180 degrees
7. tension up to 10nm
8. install the lock washer
9. tighten up out nut to 50ftlb
10. recheck hub rotation
11. fold over lock washer

once thats done insert the hub drive flange and alxe with its new gasket and tighten those bolts up, 50-70ftlb Depending on what type of bolt you have.

put the drum on, the screws back in and put the wheel on then its time to bleed and adjust

once the brakes are bleed spin the wheels by hand and have someone stomp the brakes to center the shoes then adjust up the cam bolts till the shoes just start to drag then back it off a notch (you'll feel it) once youve gotten all 4 shoes about the same put the vehcile down give it some hard braking action in forwards and reverse then redo the adjustment.

Thats it Done.

Wow! Great description! And much appreciated, too.

I take it those extra bits fitted to the outside of the backplates are mudshields, so: 1) do they work? and 2) can you get them anywhere?

standard on the perentines and hit and miss on county defenders, AFAIK the stage ones used the standard SIII LWB rear drum setup.

I'll get the stock number if and when I get chance but life is chaotic ATM, if I forget hit me up later.

G'day Blknight.aus :)

G'day Dave, the rear drum brake backing plates are indeed "Handed" as are the Shoes & they are also Front & Rear (Leading & Trailing):( the difference is in the location of the snail Cams and the shoes should have staggered pins, on all rear 11" rear drums from Series 2 through to 110 the backing plates have a Part No stamped on them, 531888 = RHside and 531889 = LHside if there are later part Nos they will also be Even = Right & Odd = Left :) hope that is of some help, I have lost count of the number of times I have had to do Backing Plate/Shoe swaps to get vehicles through RWCs after they were "Done-up" by Brake Specialists:( it can be very frustrating.

cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by UncleHo

G'day Blknight.aus :)

G'day Dave, the rear drum brake backing plates are indeed "Handed" as are the Shoes & they are also Front & Rear (Leading & Trailing):( the difference is in the location of the snail Cams and the shoes should have staggered pins, on all rear 11" rear drums from Series 2 through to 110 the backing plates have a Part No stamped on them, 531888 = RHside and 531889 = LHside if there are later part Nos they will also be Even = Right & Odd = Left :) hope that is of some help, I have lost count of the number of times I have had to do Backing Plate/Shoe swaps to get vehicles through RWCs after they were "Done-up" by Brake Specialists:( it can be very frustrating.

cheers

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right up untill you dont have a number stamped on them.. the replacement ones came in yesterday... they have numbers, On STICKERS...

Thanks Dave - I appreciate the time you've put into this thread.

Another off-topic question - I noticed in the pics the 110 is on a 2 post hoist. What are the standard army hoist pad positioning points for a 110?

I put the pads under the radius arm locating points - seems to be the most stable place. I do find that when its lifted like this, the doors are hard to open - very stiff on the catches and it returns to normal on the ground. I find this a bit strange as its lifting from the chassis and not really twisting anything - does this happen to the Perenties as well?

I usually use the rear mount for the trailing arm on the back axle and the pad on the chassis where the crossmember just in front of the front radius amrs join in, the pad grabs the chassis and a little bit of the radius arm but works very well.

Ive only had a problem with the door sticking on one vehicle and its been repaired after a prang.

Remind me when I get back from course and I'll get pics of one on a hoist for you.

G'day Blknight.aus:)

That's when you grab the stamps and belt in LR/R and RH/R you should be able to find some stamps some where, it might help a spanner monkey out in the sticks at a later date;)

cheers

G'day Blknight.aus :)
Thanks very much for the time and effort put into a usefull post. Bill.

Isn't it sad that those brakes have been fitted to Land Rovers since the early 1960's (the first SII 109s had 11" brakes with a bottom adjuster) and yet the correct way to set them up has never appeared in a Land Rover workshop manual. :mad: :mad:

The only place it seems to be documented is in a Girling manual.