A liberal coating of rust converter, than wash the residue off, let everything dry, then coat with fish oil or lanolin.
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A liberal coating of rust converter, than wash the residue off, let everything dry, then coat with fish oil or lanolin.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrapocalypse
Steam cleaning might just be forcing salt and sand into unwanted places.
I don't trust the electronic do-dads. You might not know if they work until it's too late.
I would not use sump oil as it will be contaminated with nasty substances. Clean engine oil mixed with diesel goes a long way but will soften rubber. What's cheaper, replacing rubber or metal?
defenderzook is 100% correct, seal from air and rust won't happen.
Lanolin sounds like a good option, non-rusting sheep and all :angel:.
Well this is my 25 years worth of beach driving experience in 4 Land Rovers.
Nope. Do they push this stuff on 4wd Monthly?Quote:
Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
I've been using it since you had to buy it from their office when it was 'advertised' on 60 Minutes (one of those type of shows anyway).
Smells good too but I'm not a kiwi :D
No, but they get pretty scaly:Rolling:Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbo110
Seriously though, I use Fish Oil on the Daimler and it seems to do OK, spray it everywhere you can, stinks for a few days, but I prefer stinky to rusty:ohyes:. If you are looking for a car that rusts as you watch it, a Mk2 Jag is the best you wil get:toilet:
Then again I don't do much beach driving with the Daimler:eek:
OK.
Thanks.
I plan on keeping this one.
Ian.
if you've ever worked in a shearing shed it's a smell you'd know well .... lanolin mixed with sheep dung and sweaty bodies ....mmmmmmmmmmmmmmQuote:
Originally Posted by Utemad
You know that may not actually help you much. That is a pretty aggressive approach and is likely to blast off protective coatings.Quote:
Originally Posted by mrapocalypse
As above, sand blasting is a very aggressive approach. But you're getting onto the right track with the rust inhibitor, however you should only have to use that once rust has started eating right into your metal. Sounds like you can avoid that step if you only have little spots around the place.Quote:
Originally Posted by mrapocalypse
Don't know anything about those but if you are referring to sacrificial anodes, well they should work but you'd need to position them in just the right spot, where different metals meet.Quote:
Originally Posted by mrapocalypse
Smelly, but very effective. You don't need to sand blast or anything before using it but it does need recoating from time to time. Makes a good impermeable barrier.Quote:
Originally Posted by mrapocalypse
I think this would not work well for you. The coating is not complete and smears off easily. It never really dries and is likely to trap sand and salt making your barrier a point where corrosion is more likely to start.Quote:
Originally Posted by mrapocalypse
I have sprayed George with Dinitrol, a waxoyl equivalent. It is very sticky and you need to drive along a dusty road before hitting the beaches, but it doesn't smear off and creates an impermeable barrier that can only be removed with a good scrub with kerosene. It doesn't need to be recoated, ever.
Their website dinitrol.com:
Company:
Chemetall (Australasia) Pty Ltd.
Adress:
17 Turbo Drive
Bayswater North, Vic. 3153
Tel: +61 3 9729 62 53
Fax: +61 3 9720 1711
Contact:
Grant Cruickshank
Mark Dickinson
Email:
gcruickshank@chemetall.com.au
Oh by the way, I have affiliation with them. Just passing on the info.