Thread: what to do when your lift is a little higher

Why not buy some front Lovells and fit them, this may help and get you out of trouble.

Baz.

Originally Posted by Redback

Why not buy some front Lovells and fit them, this may help and get you out of trouble.

Baz.

what Ive notice a lot of in the states is there high lifted disco all lack front end flex and they love dislocation cones which I don't want, what I want is good flex in the front to

what I might do is to speak to dobinson tomorrow and say for the amount of money its going to cost in freight why not make another set of spring and sell them to me at cost Disco white is right to a point I did tell them the spring rate I wanted they recommended 240 front and 280 rear I wanted 220 front what they made god knows, so I cant see how its my cuck up

I might take it out and see what it needs first any one for lithgo week end after next

But a good idea should they not come to the party lovells here I come

I would be just inclined to have Dobinsons reset the front springs back down to match the rears. If you want to borrow a set of fronts while its being done, I've got some here.

Also, before you get them to reset the spring, just make sure that you are able to run captive a spring that is 1" shorter than what you have now, as that is what you'll end up with.

I would give Dobinsons a phone and discuss the problem with Glen or one of his specialists if possible. His knowledge of suspensions is vast. He will be able to guid eyou in the right direction or advise you of the problem

Just to add a little more to my previous post...

When you're at that 4" level you're right on the limits of quite a few things under there like coil bind, ACE travel, watts linkage (which you've overcome), uni-uni rear shafts, front shafts, steering castor etc. Its already at a complex level of development, though 5" will take it to another level again.

At 4" you have arrived at the point where you can run 35" tyres already with a guard trim, and with 35's you're already at 7" overall lift in reality which is a workable amount, but a lot. But, what would you gain from 5" lift? Probably just more Nose, belly and tail clearance for a lot of work and money.


Also with the dislocation, my opinion and experiences are that dislocating suspension at one end doesn't allow the suspension at the other end to articulate properly as it doesn't produce a counterforce. BUT, this is a topic that gets argued until the cows come home.

So when do we all see it in action?


Is there a way to age the front springs so they sag quickly?


What did you do about your shafts to counteract the Rotorflex, DC and uni wear?

After seeing what a failed shaft has the potential to do I wouldn't be going bush or driving it until it's completely finished, and that could be a very expensive, time consuming journey. If you must drive it, it might be an idea to install a ROPS, upgrade your car and life insurance policies and buy a pallet of your local insurance assessors favorite Alcoholic beverage. And FFS widen that track.

Good luck in your endeavours.

(I might have the green eyed monster but this statement also comes from being concerned you may hurt others driving an out of balance vehicle)

Serious question for the experts
Is there a way to raise the vehicle and maintain or reduce the centre of gravity?
(I have done it once for a short period of time but the result was a hard landing and a bent chassis.)

Originally Posted by dobbo

<snip>

Is there a way to raise the vehicle and maintain or reduce the centre of gravity?
(I have done it once for a short period of time but the result was a hard landing and a bent chassis.)

not really. You are lifting the entire mass with a suspension lift so the C of G goes up a corresponding amount. A body lift doesn't raise the major mass (engine, driveline, chassis) so is less offensive in terms of CofG.

The only way to offset it practically is widen the track.