Thread: Blown expansion tank again

I blew the header tank last night, luckily I heard a hissing under the bonnet and it is only a little split. I m just about to look at it in daylight.

Has anyone tried an alloy one?

Alloy Header Tank for Land Rover, most V8 and all TDI - eBay, Cooling Systems, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 06-May-08 20:44:55 AEST)

Jeff

Looks a nice bit of gear, but from what I can glean from here, something else causes it.

I routinely clean & silicone lubricate both valves in the cap.

A leaking head gasket is something else that I cannot do anything about though.

I think ill email the Myth Busters , Im still running the black expansion tank , 3 years since i bought my Defender , And yes its a everyday driver
I have no idea how long its been on the car , I never loose coolant and i have a engine saver aswell so im not going to follow the sheep

I replaced mine after 8 years with a white one and when I bought it they would not give it to me without a new cap.The tanks are splitting because of pressure and that is the caps job.I don't think an alloy tank would help,it would just move the problem to the second weak and probably more expensive point. Pat

I am touching wood as I type this but my RRC 3.9 black tank is now 16 years old , with no obvious problem.
I replaced the coolant today with a demineralised water flush.
checked the low water alarm and it is OK.
Maybe it has something to do with having clean coolant in it.
I use Nulon Longlife and change every three or four years, or if I do a headgasket LOL.
Regards Philip A

I rang my nearby LR guy (Ayers Automotive) and thankfully he was,

1. Open on Saturday.

2. In possession of a white expansion tank and cap.

So I fitted the new tank and hopefully this one will be good for 10 years or 200 000km like the last one.

Jeff

Ive been reading all this and::

I believe that you can add a dye to the coolant to see if you have a gasket problem
Talk to the head exchange people

Also i had this problem (drives great in the city / boils under load, heavy sand 4wd)
Installed new 4 core radiator / Still happened / Temp gauge registered half then steam everwhere

I had been trying out thermo fans in lue of standard fan

Turned out to be wrong thermostat (was 92c)
Changed thermostat (72c)
Got rid of the thermo fans & went back to originals

Now everthing is rosie

So check that you have the correct tempreture thermostat setting

Turned out to be wrong thermostat (was 92c)
Changed thermostat (72c)
Got rid of the thermo fans & went back to originals

Mike, if you really mean 72c and not 82c, I assume your car is a 90RR, then your injection will be adding fuel all time, as it thinks the engine is cold starting. The cut off for warm operation is 80C.

The thermostat if operational has little to do with overheating. the car should run well with an 82C (although I think it is is a bit near to 80c on a cold day), 88C ( which is what was fitted new), or 92 c.

So 72 C is no good for an injected car. OK for carbys though so if my assumption of 90RR is incorrect, ignore me.
Regards Philip A