legally modifying cars

I'll tell my story of Engineers, not Land Rover related but the same principles hold true:
The plan, 1968 Falcon ute with a 351 Cleveland and Supra 5 speed. Nothing too radical, but as XT Utes did not have floor shifts that meant an engineer's certificate for the hole in the floor, all other work was bolt in using factory parts except for the gearbox crossmember which was from Castlemaine Rod shop.

First visit to engineer "A" resulted in a conversation that extended many thousands of dollars beyond my budget with talk of fully seam welding the front end and re engineering the seat belt mounting points. When I pointed out I thought he was a bit over the top he started making veiled threats such as "be careful, you've exposed your vehicle to an engineer now, if you do any mods without me you might be in trouble..."

A bit disappointed I asked around and found engineer "B" who thought my ideas were good but talked about charging $2000 for approving the work.

Eventually I found engineer "C" who was located some distance away but had a trip planned to Canberra and was happy to work in with me and the shop doing the blueslip. He inspected the ute very thoroughly once it was bolted together, did noise tests on the exhausts and arranged that once I had rectified a couple of minor items to the mechanic's satisfaction he would post the engineering certificate to me. All for less than $500.00 including travel money.

I guess the moral of the story is to shop around and to remember that every engineer may be interpreting the rules differently.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Regards,
Tote

This subject is not easily covered in a couple of sentences - so this is a longish post.

My WB ute is a heavily modified custom. It was originally done by a popular magazine as a project car. I accquired it & made more mods. From my experiences I can advise the following:
1. Find out as much as you can about what the laws tolerate in your state.
2. Find a reputable & referenced engineer.
3. Be prepared to pay for the engineers expertice.
4. Listen thoroughly to the engineer as he knows the laws better than you will ever.
5. Talk with & visit others who have modded vehicles along the lines you intend.
6. Seek out & use commercially available "specialised" components & kit as liability is already tested & the product is proven. This also makes the engineers more comfortable in certifying a mod.
7. Decide if you want to do the work or a specialist should do it. Be patient & prepared to pay for good work. (its cheaper than trying to replace a life).
8. Take plenty of pictures. Even if the job is outsourced you will develop a close relationship with the fabricator / customiser - they encourage your participation & photo documenting the job(s). This too makes the engineer more comfortable in assesing his risk.
9. Be prepared to test & fail. Thats what customising is about. Test some more - until everyone is satisfied.
10. Be patient & prepared to invest time & money - repeatedly.
11. Dont lie to her indoors lest she never play in your ride. Rolling solo is no fun. This is probably rule # 1.

Overall I have had very positive experiences. My engineer knows my work & my contractors & our abilities. We work as a team. We talk constantly & dont get agro over things - now. Mis understandings in communication are the #1 project killer. If you dont understand something recall the fact that you have experts who are insured & working within a risk set as your paid advisors. If its a full custom as my ute was, from time to time take some time out, give all concerned a break & save few more bucks. After the break everybody looks forward to playing with your job again.

For the record my 83 WB ute has 14 engineered points & is basically a Group A race car under the WB shell. Totally modified from bumper to bumper.

Yes I have woes when I travel interstate (NSW origin) QLD & VIC big time. I carry a laminated copy of the 11 page engineers certificate on all drives. Most enforecemnt agencies accept it. I've have been cananried with the cert in hand. Some authorities just dont want you to return - but I always do.

My current Disco's modded with acceptable kit availalble ex retail austwide. I am planning a dubios exhaust though. (read no cat / resonator & 1 HP muffler) Thanks for the op to share knowledge & info Dobbo.:D:D:D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tote

First visit to engineer "A" resulted in.... making veiled threats such as "be careful, you've exposed your vehicle to an engineer now, if you do any mods without me you might be in trouble..."

Regards,
Tote

---

Tote, there is a phone number generally in every state to which you can report engineers. In the shake up that resulted in national standards & engineers having to re-apply for their certification ( Govts effort to eradicate dodgy bribe taking enginners that were rogues in industry) the transport gestapo jump on these guys pronto. & so they should. I encourage anyone who has an unsavoury experience with a certified engineer, REPORT him/her. Nice ride BTW.

Cheers

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Slunnie

Is that max lift 150mm and 33's or max lift 150mm with 33's?

---

Max lift with 33's.

We can only have 150mm including all lifts and difference in tyres from standard.

I think Tote brings up a really good point.

Shop around OR get an engineer who has been recommended by someone you know.

The engineer we are using is not cheap but he knows Rangies failty well and engineers all Andrews stuff at Les Richmond. Since I am using the Les Richmond extended shock mounts, body lift and ute kit, most of thestuff has laready passes his engineering.

PS. Tote - Your avatar is very disturbing, I keep finding myself staring at it. :angel:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tote

I'll tell my story of Engineers, not Land Rover related but the same principles hold true:
The plan, 1968 Falcon ute with a 351 Cleveland and Supra 5 speed. Nothing too radical, but as XT Utes did not have floor shifts that meant an engineer's certificate for the hole in the floor, all other work was bolt in using factory parts except for the gearbox crossmember which was from Castlemaine Rod shop.

First visit to engineer "A" resulted in a conversation that extended many thousands of dollars beyond my budget with talk of fully seam welding the front end and re engineering the seat belt mounting points. When I pointed out I thought he was a bit over the top he started making veiled threats such as "be careful, you've exposed your vehicle to an engineer now, if you do any mods without me you might be in trouble..."

A bit disappointed I asked around and found engineer "B" who thought my ideas were good but talked about charging $2000 for approving the work.

Eventually I found engineer "C" who was located some distance away but had a trip planned to Canberra and was happy to work in with me and the shop doing the blueslip. He inspected the ute very thoroughly once it was bolted together, did noise tests on the exhausts and arranged that once I had rectified a couple of minor items to the mechanic's satisfaction he would post the engineering certificate to me. All for less than $500.00 including travel money.

I guess the moral of the story is to shop around and to remember that every engineer may be interpreting the rules differently.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/


Regards,
Tote

---

Just a Slight Deviation from main Subject , mate! nice ute...

I have a similar story to Tote getting my Suzuki Bandit and Sidecar registered in NSW.

I had a Vic engineering certificate but this was not deemed good enough. I went to several engineers who all wanted different things done, from X-raying welds just copying the Vic one all for an exorbitant price. They seemed to push the 'your kids safety is at stake' line, when the Victorian engineer was perfectly adequate.

Jeff

:rocket: