Please help - poor diesel economy

You have to look at the external differences first to understand where your loosing fuel economy.

The first thing would be the 245 75 muddies, they will bump up the fuel economy espesially around town as they are heavier to turn than the road tyres that are OME as well as they are larger so you need to use more power to turn them from a stand still so that is a huge jump when driving in traffic or with lots of stops at traffic lights.

The type of driving you do as in just to the shops or to drop kids at school means you are starting and stopping the engine lots more than someone doing more HWY K's.

I have heard that snorkles can cause a rise in economy but I cant say I have noticed but if it is lifted then add some as well.

Throw in some out of adjustment valve clearences and you can easilly get to the 14 odd mark.

Sschmez came out with a print out one time of his economy of his D1 300TDI auto and it was around the 15 mark as he always has a rack on and heavilly loaded as well as most of his driving is around melbourne.

Mine is a little better than steves but not by much these days as it is loaded most of the time with a rack and tent on the roof and normally carrying 120 odd ltrs of fuel, 235 85 rubber, 2" lift, snorkle on BFG AT's.

Try borrowing someones standard rubber one trip and see the difference.

I think you need to do some more testing. One fillup can be close to useless for a fuel economy test, do a couple more (without the sand driving) and see how it goes.

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Originally Posted by Dougal

I think you need to do some more testing. One fillup can be close to useless for a fuel economy test, do a couple more (without the sand driving) and see how it goes.

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I take it your are doing by fill up and the amout of K's . Check your speado is not out and it is recording less k's than you are doing. And Yes the speado and the amout of K's travel can be differant. I had a rangie that the speedo worked fine but for every 100 miles you did it clock up 1 miles on the milage (mmm i left it as it mean't i sold the car with low mileage :):))

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Originally Posted by mcrover

You have to look at the external differences first to understand where your loosing fuel economy.

The first thing would be the 245 75 muddies, they will bump up the fuel economy espesially around town as they are heavier to turn than the road tyres that are OME as well as they are larger so you need to use more power to turn them from a stand still so that is a huge jump when driving in traffic or with lots of stops at traffic lights.

The type of driving you do as in just to the shops or to drop kids at school means you are starting and stopping the engine lots more than someone doing more HWY K's.

I have heard that snorkles can cause a rise in economy but I cant say I have noticed but if it is lifted then add some as well.

Throw in some out of adjustment valve clearences and you can easilly get to the 14 odd mark.

Sschmez came out with a print out one time of his economy of his D1 300TDI auto and it was around the 15 mark as he always has a rack on and heavilly loaded as well as most of his driving is around melbourne.

Mine is a little better than steves but not by much these days as it is loaded most of the time with a rack and tent on the roof and normally carrying 120 odd ltrs of fuel, 235 85 rubber, 2" lift, snorkle on BFG AT's.

Try borrowing someones standard rubber one trip and see the difference.

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I agree with you. The oversized tyres and start stop/short journeys won't help.

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Originally Posted by gorby

I agree with you. The oversized tyres and start stop/short journeys won't help.

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Around town is where the Auto is worse with the fuel than the Manual. No real differance on the highway

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Originally Posted by goldey

I haven't checked the tappet settings yet. It's on the to do list. I will also check the air hoses for cracks etc. Intercooler hose part numbers would be lovely and also steps to check the settings of the fuel pump, the last thing I want is to inherit engine damage because the guy before me wanted a bit more oomph.:mad:

Cheers

Goldey

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here is the part numbers from one of my earlier posts, both the Elbow and straight piece.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...tdi-300-a.html

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Originally Posted by Disco_owner

here is the part numbers from one of my earlier posts, both the Elbow and straight piece.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...tdi-300-a.html

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I have Allisport (d alot of Land Rover sports stuff) ones on my 90
Can get them off Eaby and posted here
AlliSport Land Rover Defender 300 Tdi 300Tdi Hose Kit - eBay Engine Tuning Parts, Performance Tuning Parts, Car Tuning Styling, Cars, Parts Vehicles. (end time 11-Dec-07 07:00:00 AEDST)

Or other ones here
In differant colours:)
Red
SILICONE HOSE KIT for Land Rover 300 TDI landrover RED - eBay Engine Tuning Parts, Performance Tuning Parts, Car Tuning Styling, Cars, Parts Vehicles. (end time 27-Dec-07 00:49:41 AEDST)

Blue
SILICONE HOSE KIT for Land Rover 300 TDI landrover BLUE - eBay Engine Tuning Parts, Performance Tuning Parts, Car Tuning Styling, Cars, Parts Vehicles. (end time 27-Dec-07 00:49:53 AEDST)

Black
SILICONE HOSE KIT for Land Rover 300TDI landrover BLACK - eBay Engine Tuning Parts, Performance Tuning Parts, Car Tuning Styling, Cars, Parts Vehicles. (end time 27-Dec-07 00:49:35 AEDST)

I paid $48.00 for the Elbow and straight Silicone hose Pieces and retained my alloy straight piece from TurboXS in Hornsby , that was the cheapest price around .. the Kit that you have inluded the link to is about 62 pound or $147.0 that's a big difference..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Reads90

I have Allisport (d alot of Land Rover sports stuff) ones on my 90
Can get them off Eaby and posted here
AlliSport Land Rover Defender 300 Tdi 300Tdi Hose Kit - eBay Engine Tuning Parts, Performance Tuning Parts, Car Tuning Styling, Cars, Parts Vehicles. (end time 11-Dec-07 07:00:00 AEDST)

Or other ones here
In differant colours:)
Red
SILICONE HOSE KIT for Land Rover 300 TDI landrover RED - eBay Engine Tuning Parts, Performance Tuning Parts, Car Tuning Styling, Cars, Parts Vehicles. (end time 27-Dec-07 00:49:41 AEDST)

Blue
SILICONE HOSE KIT for Land Rover 300 TDI landrover BLUE - eBay Engine Tuning Parts, Performance Tuning Parts, Car Tuning Styling, Cars, Parts Vehicles. (end time 27-Dec-07 00:49:53 AEDST)

Black
SILICONE HOSE KIT for Land Rover 300TDI landrover BLACK - eBay Engine Tuning Parts, Performance Tuning Parts, Car Tuning Styling, Cars, Parts Vehicles. (end time 27-Dec-07 00:49:35 AEDST)

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a well tuned 300tdi driven perfectly in theory is capable of 10.5+ Kpl.

the opening things that will let it down have already been mentioned but a couple that havent need to be identified..

1. compression, how old is the motor, how many K's has it done?
2. timing as the timing belt stretches it can let the timing go out .5 degrees and more thats enough to upset things a little
3. injectors not up to spec for crack pressure, nozzle pattern and atomisation.

add a little of those three which are all unavoidable with engine age/milage to anything thats been mentioned before and your fuel consumption will skyrocket.

Just to add to what Dave said above;

Don't forget that aswell as making the little Tdi work harder, the 245.75's are about 10% out with KM. This means you would've travelled close to 990km instead of 900 on that tank, which equates to 13l/100. Add a tappet adjust, take into account timing belt wear, and possible otrher factors like thrashing it in sand and you may yet see 11l/100k. I haven't seen any auto disco Tdi's get 10l/100 with a mix of stop start driving and offroad use.

Highway driving without a headwind will get around 10 to 11l/100, but the auto is slightly higher geared in lockup than the manual and works harder, even without the 32"tyres.

Don't panic, a few adjustments and all will be revealed.:D

Overall, a great little engine and puts out an amazing amount when you realise it is only 2.5 litres.


JC