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yea sorry either I have had too many beers or the way i used to post photos on this site has changed as i cant seem to do it. Never had trouble b4 so what gives. anyway it looks like you are wright as the stuff that came out were broken syncro teath I think. I have posted them in the menbers gallery for you to see but cant seem to stick them n the thread. I will one more beer and try again.:;)
Hi all, thanks to all the replys.
Thanks for the offer of the loan box ( Blknight.aus) but as i am located in sydney it will be hard to get. Although i have been doing a far bit of traveling back and forth from QLD so i will keep it in mind.
I am still tying to post a pic of the crap that came out of the box so hang in there!
Any way I am looking options on both replacing the box and getting a high speed TC or an over drive so if any body wants to sell either please PM me or!
Will a box out of a holden/Ford or toyota bolt straight up or can it be done with a bit of work.?
thanks in advance.
http://www.aulro.com/app/data/500/medium/DSCF0782.JPG
Here is the photo of the crap from the box.
Are they syncro teeth?
This might help you find it series 3 box in 4th gear
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
If your going to do the K's in it and want more top speed (but be warned this permanantly sacrafices your towing ability on highway) get the high speed tcase setup and rebuild the main transmission.
The overdrives are good for lightweight stuff But I wouldnt put one in a long wheelbase that was going to be loaded or tow, They whine worse than a politician whose been told hes getting a paycut or has to take responsability for a descision.
thats a 2 or 2a box, based on the clutch aseembly and that first gear is a square cut sliding mesh type gear...Quote:
Originally Posted by djam1
(yes picky I know...)
Sorry diddnt help for all i know i could be looking at the inside of a rocket ship.
I will be dropping the box in the next few weeks so i should have a better understanding of the workings of a gear box. I have read in the manual that the box needs to come out by removing the seats??? Can it be dropped by just lowering it, how heavy are they? and can it be done on axil stands in the back yard??
Help.
Fill it up with banana skins! Every dodgey car dealer does it, used to in the old days , that and saw dust, remember they used to hot clean the engines then spray with varnish so they didnt leak until you got them home, The old concrete warranty, Sounds like a rebuild for you
nope you dont have to drop the seat out...... but depending on your strength/number of mates willing to sacrafice skin and willingness to do some stuff the harder than it has to be way Its easier to take the seat box out.Quote:
Originally Posted by willvine
the short version of not pulling the seatbox out to get the box out is...
1. disconnect everything from the tcase and get it out of the way
2. disconnect the exhaust if you have the setup that follows under the box instead of under the passangers side foot well
3. remove the floor plates and tunnel covers
4. seperate the tcase from the back of the box (remeber to support the box near its drain plug as the mounts are on the tcase) and remove it
5. remove the gear selector, clutch cylinder and unbolt the bellhousing from the engine (leave 2 bolts to hold it while you plan out the next bit)
6. move the box backwards then drop it down (some tetrising maybe required)
7. slide it out from under the vehicle (you might have to jack the vehicle up to get the bell housing clear)
If the seat box hasnt been out in an age it might be a good time to take it out and give the chassis, fuel tank(s) and the side bars a bit of anti tinworm TLC.
yea thanks, I think I will take the seat box out, dam as i went nuts with the sound proofing. and also the tank has a hole in it somewere as it leaks with
30L or more in it.
cheers, I will let you know what i find.