Thread: Salisbury diff center removal

easy, just zip the axles out and the tailshaft and unbolt [nuts] the centre and it will just about fall out on you. might need a tap or two to free it but it's that easy.
good idea to have the truck sitting on chassis stands so there is no load on the diff housing.

Originally Posted by harry

easy, just zip the axles out and the tailshaft and unbolt [nuts] the centre and it will just about fall out on you. might need a tap or two to free it but it's that easy.
good idea to have the truck sitting on chassis stands so there is no load on the diff housing.

Ummm we are talking salisbury and not banjo right?

Originally Posted by Lucus

Ummm we are talking salisbury and not banjo right?

yep you're right, i got it wrong, not thinking.
my apologies, ignore what i said,

you generally wont need them. IMHO its easier to do the whole thing with the axle housing complete out of the vehicle but its doable in situe.

be warned tho theres lots of catch risks for fingers when getting it in and out so a light weight overhead hoist, engine crane or similar is a nice to have but not essential.

be a perfectionist about the pinion bearings and preloads when your at it, theres nothing worse than having to pull the whole thing down 5k Km later because its having a whine at you.

actually be perfectionist about the whole deal. measure 3 or 4 times and check all your calcs at least twice and have someone else eyeball your work, get it right once and a sailsbury will just about outlast the rover its in.

In theory - Yes... You need a clamp to crush/deform the casing to get the diff out of a Salisbury. If you get it open, release the brackets & the diff just falls out without this clamp, then you've probably got a damaged axle casing (i.e. it has been deformed in some way)...

If it is bent (I've seen it before on abused vehicles - ex-Camels!! ) then the casing should be replaced... However, I have seen them simply re-built and they do go on quite happily.

HTH

M

Oh yeah... Forgot to say that it is very simple to make your own clamp. You simply need 2x lengths of thick metal (20mm x 20mm - ish) drilled at both ends to accept & 2x threaded rods with nuts & washers.

The clamp parts fit top & bottom, over the diff casing and you then crush the casing by gradually tightening the nuts until the diff comes free...

(I tried to find a pic but failed... IIRC there might be one in the RAVE manual).

HTH

M

Mate you dont need any special (clamps,spreaders)to drop the center

but as Dave says be pedantic when you set it up

take the houseing out of the car have the center faceing up so much easier to set up..saves heaps of frustration trying to do it in situe

T

Hi,
Before you clean the outside thoroughly have a look around where the tubes are inserted into the centre cast housing. If there is any weeping or oil marks it is likely that 1. It will come loose eventually (seen that). 2. The casing may be bent.
Detroit lockers (No-spin) are really unlocking diffs and do not like any axial misalignment as they do not have large tolerances. Some diff specialists have parallel ground steel bars to check casings for straightness when fitting No-spins. After you fit it up then make sure the tyres are the same brand, tread, size, wear and pressure so that the rolling circumference is the same on both sides. It will then drive perfectly - but if after all that it starts BANGING you can bet the casing is bent. BANGING also occurs sometimes if you come to a stop on a curve at lights and as you move off the windup lets go - so try not to hold the brake on to a complete stop - let it roll the last bit.
If you have different tyres or don't keep your tyre pressures within a few pounds you can expect slight wandering on acceleration and backing off the accelerator.
If the casing is bent they wear the spline in the driving flange away until - NO drive on that side. The vehicle will still drive on the other side but it requires a bit of concentration to drive....erratic to say the least.
A friend has one in a 1987 County and it's been great.
BTW I have had a Locker in a 9" F100 diff fitted in my Series 2A for twenty five years. I don't think too many other products give you that much reliability. They used to have a lifetime guarantee or 100,000 miles. (Engel fridge excepted - bought in 1972 and still in daily use). Until the casing was made absolutely straight I wore out about three Salisbury driving flanges!
Hope this helps - there used to be a bit in the Instructions about some of these issues - don't know if that is still the case.
Bob