Why isn't my fridge working?

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3rd January 2008, 02:41 PM
Bulldog

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jezzaol

Having been a Weaco repair centre for over 5 years the biggest problem I got with waeco is there lead !...... As everyone has said, replace it with a H/Duty Marine, Merit style or 32v plug or better still Hard wire the lead and leave it perminatly in the back of your car, pop down to your waeco agent and buy another lead for about $27 and keep that for use with your 240v Adaptor and in case you need to use your fridge in another vehicle !
I have had 3 waeco's 1 x CF80 run on display for the last 5 years and still going, CF50 permanylt going with help from my solar panel in the Disco and a FF70 (best of the Lot) old style one Knob on /off ! They all have been bullet proof, the 80lt is quite thirsy for current maintaing the freezer but in all not bad, Good trick with the 80 is if your just doing a Day trip turn the fridge down till the freezer is running at fridge temprature and put your drinks etc in there ! use's much less current !

Number one RULE !..............From new Throw away Cig Plug ! it may not be a problem straight away but it will be soon !

Cheers

Problems with the lead or the plug? Buying another lead and changing the plug is still using the lead. My post above talks about replacing the lead too. Have you heard of this being done?
3rd January 2008, 02:47 PM
crump

Quote:

Originally Posted by weeds

yep a multimeter will be your best friend, sorry don't know much about waeco's........crump was having troubles with his no so long ago, similar problems from memory

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/general-ch...-warranty.html

didn't think waeco's broke down;):psorry had to get in first

in defence of Waecos, I have cursed mine in the past but it was my ignorance of my electrical system not the fridges fault.My CF40 has spent everyday of the last 4+years in my defender and done every km the Fender has done sitting in the rear passenger footwell.I paid $600 for it new and its still under warranty, I cant really complain.:(
3rd January 2008, 03:06 PM
loanrangie

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bulldog

I have the fridge on 240V now and is cooling nicely.

I like the idea of running a neg wire to the sockets. When i wire my car, i try to do it in a way that is normal in a car (ie. neg to chassis/metal etc) but being an electronics guy i understand +ve wires and -ve/gnd wires. I'm glad to hear that this is (possibly) and accepted method. If/when i rewire it i will run a -ve too.

Yes, might improve the socket type, but the fridge came with a cig lighter plug so you'd think it would be ok for the current. Also means i can't use the fridge in other cars unless i change all their sockets too :(.

Maybe change the plug to a merit plug, they come with a little cap that allows use in a normal cigi socket as well.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
3rd January 2008, 03:08 PM
Bulldog

Quote:

Originally Posted by loanrangie

Maybe change the plug to a merit plug, they come with a little cap that allows use in a normal cigi socket as well.

https://www.tektrek.com.au/images/CO...%20Adaptor.JPG

I recently found out (a few posts ago) that the Waeco plug is a Merit plug, but my sockets are cig lighter. Are these merit plugs much better or should i go for the anderson plugs or similar?
3rd January 2008, 05:26 PM
Slunnie

Like has alredy been said, I can just about guarantee that is it the cig lighter plug on the fridges cord. In the car they only last a fwe days to maybe 2 or so weeks in my experience. On the power pack at home they also don't last long before they go dicky.

I'm also now using successfully a marine screw down fitting from Bias boating.
3rd January 2008, 06:30 PM
cookiesa

Well I have had a 40lt for about 4 ish years now and never had a problem with the lead or plug (Disco's must be much kinder.... LOL) The fridge lives in the vehicle (3 1/2 years or so of that was use in the Territory and Whyalla, very hot) Plenty of rough dirt and 4x4 use.

Removed the red end and bought the socket (Merit style as pictured before) But when I eventually replace the "temporary" fridge slide/box I will go marine only because of so many reports of the plugs coming loose/breaking etc.
3rd January 2008, 06:58 PM
bensdive

just got mine back waeco

Hi
Found it to be voltage drop. when it started up the voltage drop to 9.4v this is in both the cables to the back of the car and cig lighter This with a dual batts.
Ben
3rd January 2008, 10:04 PM
Jezzaol

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bulldog

Problems with the lead or the plug? Buying another lead and changing the plug is still using the lead. My post above talks about replacing the lead too. Have you heard of this being done?

Sorry ........... I have never had the lead fail, every time its the plug on the end, And the Socert PIc's in the post's below are exactly the same as what comes on a WAeco LEad ! Even though they plug into to a Hella or Merrit Plug they are NO good, Every time they fail just as quick as being plugged into a normal Cig plug, It seems that the main cause to this as all the weight of that long socert hangs badly in the plug causing a bad conection which in turn turns into poor power consumpion and failure !
Use Hella or Ashdown Socerts (Hella rated to 8amps Ashdown 20amps) I like the full earth band on the hella plug but the connector screws in time can break down and cause the less rating, The ashdown plug does not look as good but its a Solder up Job with a really firm fitment into the socert and I have never had a Failure ! The socert from Dick smith / electus that is also in the pic's is also a bad one, Looks good but every one failed that i tried dues to the Centre pin falling out ! Had to replace every one !

Hope that helps,
Remember the the 2 pin 32Volt plug is also a good one ! or HARD WIRE IT !

Cheers & Happy New Year !
3rd January 2008, 11:18 PM
Jezzaol

Mine's set to low since it's the aux battery. I hope that's not low enough to stuff the battery ;)[/QUOTE]

I tend to recomend low, to get maximum perforance out of your fridge, As you can tell Waeco's are very volage sensitive and with most people not changing the plug, the cut-out in those situations would be higher anyway. Over-discharged battery will take longer to re-charge ! The less you flatten it the better, I recomend trying and working out what setting works best for you !
Run the fridge until it cuts out and check what the voltage is at the battery !

Cheers
4th January 2008, 09:16 AM
Bulldog

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jezzaol

Sorry ........... I have never had the lead fail, every time its the plug on the end, And the Socert PIc's in the post's below are exactly the same as what comes on a WAeco LEad ! Even though they plug into to a Hella or Merrit Plug they are NO good, Every time they fail just as quick as being plugged into a normal Cig plug, It seems that the main cause to this as all the weight of that long socert hangs badly in the plug causing a bad conection which in turn turns into poor power consumpion and failure !
Use Hella or Ashdown Socerts (Hella rated to 8amps Ashdown 20amps) I like the full earth band on the hella plug but the connector screws in time can break down and cause the less rating, The ashdown plug does not look as good but its a Solder up Job with a really firm fitment into the socert and I have never had a Failure ! The socert from Dick smith / electus that is also in the pic's is also a bad one, Looks good but every one failed that i tried dues to the Centre pin falling out ! Had to replace every one !

Hope that helps,
Remember the the 2 pin 32Volt plug is also a good one ! or HARD WIRE IT !

Cheers & Happy New Year !

Thank you Jezzaol, we seem to be getting somewhere now :).

You answered my next question in advance (the Waeco plug does indeed look to be of Merit plug appearance - its definitely getting the snip!).

I've never heard of any of these names, but now that they've been mentioned they'll be easier to find... The CF-50 specs says it can draw 7 amps at max so the Hella plug might be cutting it a bit fine at 8 amps... Anything that has to be soldered is good news for me ;) being in electronics, not electrical (big difference). I think i'll even solder my in-line fuse holder and heatshrink it instead of the crimps (hate them :twisted:). The hard-wired option is a great idea, and might be the go, although i'd want another lead as backup.

Thanks guys. Top ideas as usual.

Happy new year to all!

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