damienb
Its a December 1998 build, so its still OK to run a wire from + battery to + coil
to by pass imobiliser. Failing this where would some one recomend a LR mechanic in the RYDE area?
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damienb
Its a December 1998 build, so its still OK to run a wire from + battery to + coil
to by pass imobiliser. Failing this where would some one recomend a LR mechanic in the RYDE area?
It's a spidy year. Battery to coil will check the ignition immobiliser. I guess spraying starter fluid in the inlet while cranking will check the fuel pump (or use a multimeter). It's a relatively easy fix - easier than the forums indicate. Pull the dash apart until you get to the spider, rip it out, and either re-solder, or bypass. Throw it back together, and it should be good. It took me about 2 hours. The worst part is that 10 year old plastic is not particularly strong, and a lot of tabs break off. Superglue works well to reassemble.Quote:
Originally Posted by easy
A bit more info here: Definitive Alarm Spider Post........ this may come in useful!! - DiscoWeb Message Boards
Someone else might help on the mechanic.
/Damien
My symptoms werethe same. 3.5 efi disco 1 . Spent $900 on getting things checked out by an efi specialist. Turned out the plugs i put in were crap can't recall what brand. Had spark all the way but at the end of the plugs.???? Gremlins. Anyway replaced plugs and went well. Another thought is it possible that one or more of your injectors are leaking over time and flooding it hence winding kick and stop ect. also had starting problem after sitting. Out of shear frustration put a set of injectors out of Commodore vp in and beast now starts and runs better then it ever has. Sure to get shot down by someone more knowledgeable but for the price of a set of decent set of plugs who knows. Happy trails Baz:D
Bazzle218,
He has changed them.
I've had probs with plugs before.
Heat can destroy them very quickly.
Hi check that the fuel pump is working, I had this happen in the drivway at home, the fuel pump died. There is also an inertia switch that cuts the power to the fuel pump in case of an accident. It may have triped for some reason or failed. It is on the RHS under the dash to the left of the steering column. (91 disco) it should have 2 wires going to it white and white with purple strip. You can just short it out to test it. I have had mine in my county do it on very rough road up in the NT. Tim
First of all, have you checked if you are getting any spark?? Is it weak??Quote:
Originally Posted by easy
If you are getting a good fat spark, you have other issues.
Anyway, Air gap check as follows.
Pull off the dizzy cap, remove the rotor and shield.
You will see a reluctor ring monted on the shaft, this has eight points to it.
There is a magenetic pickup in the dizzy, as the shaft rotates, the points on the reluctor ring pass really close to the pick up and influence the magnetic field which then sends the signal to the amp, etc.
Turn the motor over by hand until one of the points on the ring is next to the pick up, the gap should be 0.2-0.35mm from memory, mine was a little over 0.4mm and was enough to give weak intermittant spark when cranking.
Get your feeler guages out and check the gap. I adjusted mine to the minimum 0.2mm.
I'm sure Blknight will correct any errors in procedure or terminology in the above, thanks Dave:D
Have you checked the connections in the low tension circuit? Mine played up for a year at least, until I squeezed one of the female connectors on the coil with a pair of pliers. The connector seemed to be a particularly poor design and didn't really grip the tag very well.
No more problems 2 months later:D
Cheers Charlie
Well finaly got to car last night, their is no spark from coil,changed coil still no spark, checked all connections, nothing,have bypassed spider,still nothing, put a new battery in, nothing.It's getting to the piont I have to get a specialist LR to fix,any recomendations I'm in the Ryde area Sydney. Help, I have had this car from new 90000k no problems untill the last 4 months.Thanks fellas