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Thanks for posting this Rick. I have always heard bad things about poly bushes in coillers, but have been happily running them in my IIA for about 10 years (some are now due for replacement).
May have to consider them for the 110 now as well.
As you can see, I also have a little bit of wheel travel ;)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Thanks, cleared that one up.;)Quote:
Originally Posted by jik22
Cheers
Simon
Quote:
Originally Posted by agrojnr
Same here , going back for a couple of weeks to see my mates and do the Gaydon 60th trip from Lode lane to Gaydon. Got a car in the line :):)
Rick and to the others that use Poly style bushes. What sort of longevity did you get from the Poly style bush.
I recently bolted on long travel suspension and after 4 x 4wd days i have flogged out the rubber bushes (that were replaced with new bushes when the suspension was bolted on) on my radius arms at both the chassis and axle ends. It will be an expensive exercise to replace bushes every 2 months at this rate.
MLD
Were the rubber replacement "Genuine" Land Rover?Quote:
Originally Posted by MLD
either way, I think even those have slipped quality somewhat. Im running SP at the chassis end of TA/RA and A frame, rubber at axle end of TA/RA and Panhard. So far so good, id say at least 50k km.
I don't know how i missed this thread first time around.
I tried poly bushes in the Panhard rod of my RRC about 20 years ago.
They wore about 1MM on the centre tube in one trip to the Simpson.
When you think about it the bush must wear quickly if you do any sand/mud running at all as they rotate on the centre steel sleeve continuously. The sand gets in regardless of how much you grease and its bye bye bush quickly.
The rubber bushes work on shear (metalistic) within the rubber with the outer glued to the outer tube of the bush and the inner glued to the inner tube. That is why the bolts come loose on the tubes, as if they are not tight enough the tubes start to move. However there is no rubbing/pivoting movement.
However if you fit long travel shocks , the distance the rubber bush has to move in shear may be more than its limit and it may tear so maybe that is why they don't last long .
Aside from the ride harshness issue , you may get the same result by simply leaving the centre bolt of the rubber bush a little loose and grease up the bolt so that the rubber bush doesn't get overstressed. However this will wear out the mount quickly. You could of course fit some washers at the ends of the inner tube , so that they can wear.
I just posted this so that all can understand how each type of bush works . IMHO Poly bushes are no good for touring in the outback , but may be good for weekend warriors, but maybe the same articulation result can be obtained by just a simple loosening of the centre bolts.
Regards Philip A
Your 1 trip 20 yrs ago is grounds for that entire post?
Polyurethane compounds have come a long way since then, combined with designs which provide some sealing between the outer edge of the bush and the mount to reduce contaminate ingress.
I've fitted Super pro bushes to many vehicles and driven them in mud, sand, water and dust without any ill effects over thousands of kilometers, as have many others...
Yes, the bush and tube behave as described but for the tube to spin you didn't have it torqued properly...
Philip, IMHO you have vastly oversimplified what goes on and left out more important stuff that happens during articulation and more so with modified suspension travel.
Also Land Rover changed the design of the bushes for the axle end of the radius arms, that may improve performance on the highway but is detrimental off road.
And what Serg said about quality these days is supported by anecdotal evidence - genuine is better than aftermarket, but still not as good as the early genuine stuff.
I thought you left :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
anyway, it seems the only guys knocking "SuperPro" bushes are those that either ran or knew someone that ran the old "PolyBush" from 20-30 years ago so tar everything with the same brush…..kinda like saying all vehicle axle shafts are crap because a series Land Rover used them as consumables.
No I didn't say that.Quote:
Yes, the bush and tube behave as described but for the tube to spin you
didn't have it torqued properly...
All Polybushes AFAIK should have the centre tube tightened so that it doesn't spin. the Polybush MUST spin on the centre shaft to work. Movement causes wear unless say the bush has a brass insert which AFAIK none have.
I also have a modern polyblock towing coupling on my camper . They still wear.Maybe over a longer period than years ago but my coupling is now worn out after about 50KK use.
If you are talking the OEM rubber bushes , then the reality is that many spin because they are not tight enough, but of course they should not.
There should therefore be no rubbing/ spinning movement so no wear UNLESS The shear limit of the bush is reached.
That is why AFAIK all 4WD manufacturers use metallistic rubber bushes.
Could you please advise of any 4WD manufacturers that you know who use Poly bushes as OEM? If they perform better than metallistic in the long term, I would expect a wholesale adoption especially seeing they are much cheaper to produce.
Regards Philip A