Shock Absorbers (rear 110)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DeeJay

I just picked up two x Billies from Quadrant at Hallam for $510.00. They are the extra travel ones as per Rick 130's post and fitted with protectors. They also offered to re- valve them if they are too stiff for nix.
You really need these, or a similar travel shock as I had exactly the same setup as you and busted one rear shock clean off on the Wandin test track and recently broke the 3 mounting bolts on the rear pin on the Bloomfield track in QLD:eek:. Kinda let me know with a fair old din.
Its wrong of OME (ARB) to market these 2" lift kits as the shocks simply restrict the travel too much and obviously don't like doing it.
David

---

David can you help me with a part number please? Tks Chris

Beg to differ here on a few counts..

1. Dropped shock mounts by themselves will just cause more problems. The shock will top out & break on full compression unless you lower the bump stops. You're gaining droop at the expense of stuff - and the vehicle is more stable if the wheels can fully stuff the guards.

2. Under what circumstances is the rear jumping around? Both empty & loaded? You've certainly got a problem, no doubt leading to the dead shock. I'm guessing its a mismatch between shock valving & your H/D springs, not the shock stroke, that's causing the jumping around. & then the jumping causes the shock to get hammered as it fully extends momentarily.

3. There's a lot of misunderstanding about lifts somehow shorterning your travel. The reality is you have exactly the same travel before & after the spring lift*. As you traverse unven ground, climb a rock step, the wheels will cycle through the same pattern. The only difference is the chassis height is different at the start of the obstacle. But full droop & full stuff will be the same.

*(ignoring reduced stuff coz of coil bind with longer springs)

And if you a Billie that bolts in, slightly longer, works well with a 2" lift, just go Landcrusher 80/100 series upside down. The ride is very firm, but no skipping around. Actually the ride improves as the polyairs get pumped up.

Regards
Max P

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tusker

Beg to differ here on a few counts..

1. Dropped shock mounts by themselves will just cause more problems. The shock will top out & break on full compression unless you lower the bump stops. You're gaining droop at the expense of stuff - and the vehicle is more stable if the wheels can fully stuff the guards.


Regards
Max P

---

Thanks Max,

I was actually thinking the same thing as I lay in bed. From fully extended to bump stop, there is 20cm of axle travel. So I need the full travel of the shock absorber. Lowering the shock will only cause it to bottom out on compression instead of extend to it's limit on extension. Same problem, just the other end of the shocker.

If I extend the bump stops, I really reduced the articulation potential.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tusker

Beg to differ here on a few counts..


2. Under what circumstances is the rear jumping around? Both empty & loaded? You've certainly got a problem, no doubt leading to the dead shock. I'm guessing its a mismatch between shock valving & your H/D springs, not the shock stroke, that's causing the jumping around. & then the jumping causes the shock to get hammered as it fully extends momentarily.


Regards
Max P

---

It rode better fully loaded, and the measurements I took were with a pretty full 150 litre tank, plus water tank, plus Kaymar rear wheel holder, plus tools. So I'm guessing that with no load, the shocker would have been at its maximum stroke at rest. - Hence no extension possible, hence wheels leaving the ground.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LoveMyV8County

David can you help me with a part number please? Tks Chris

---

Sure,
Looking at the receipt,
Front - springs OME751 Shocks N45F
Rear Springs OME755 Shocks N44
Castor kit CALR1

Jeez, I realize you probably meant the Billies.

Front B46-1477
Rear B46-1477 Stone Protector SP1123 - (46M 1478)
Bushes sp-1021

Looking again, (second edit) they have used the same part number and the bushes p/no refers to the eye bush for the rear. They said they had to "make them up"
Regards,
David

Thanks David,

I called Quadrant and they can match it all up. Finally someone who knows what they're talking about. I'm no expert, but after taking some measurements it was obvious most sales people I spoke to didn't know more than me.

They use a modified 100 Series LC shock absorber.

It has a compressed length of 385mm
an extended length of 625mm

This means I get 145mm of compression from normal ride height, which matches the bump stop. I also get 95mm of extension, which matches the spring retaining distance.

$510 for a pair. About 24 hours to make them up, and a 100,000km warranty.

I just need to give them the spring specs for my Defender so they can calculate valving et.

That will give me a better and safer ride (wheels not breaking traction with the ground) and 10cm of extra articulation.

Unless the big KONI Raids work out significantly cheaper ex-UK, this seems to be the way to go.

FYI

KONI 8240-1190 SPX [349mm - 565mm] are $348AUD a pair, including delivery out of the USA.

Does that still allow for compression of the bump stop rubber?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 100I

Does that still allow for compression of the bump stop rubber?

---

Yep.

530mm shocker length at ride height.

minus 385mm compressed length = 145mm

distance to bump stop is 140mm.

So the bump stop should touch just before the shocker punches itself.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Michael2

It rode better fully loaded, and the measurements I took were with a pretty full 150 litre tank, plus water tank, plus Kaymar rear wheel holder, plus tools. So I'm guessing that with no load, the shocker would have been at its maximum stroke at rest. - Hence no extension possible, hence wheels leaving the ground.

---

130's run at almost nil droop unladen with the OE dampers as discussed on a previous thread in the last week or two. This helps limit body roll on road, but pulls wheels off the deck badly off road. It can cause skipping on corrugations but if sufficient rebound damping is in the shock, it won't be a problem on road.