Did he make one for your county????Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
Printable View
Did he make one for your county????Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
My county tank is in perfect nick, so didn't bother with one, but was told that he makes a few different styles of coiller tanks - in std and long range varieties.Quote:
Originally Posted by sclarke
I think he wasn't 100% sure what tank fits what (as he was just given a set of plans for each tank, and probably just identifies them by a part #). So you would probably have to tell him the details of the tank (i.e. if the fuel pump sits in the tank, what kind of mount brackets, etc...)
I agree with Ben. There is a sheet metal place in Tarragindi (Sth side Brisbane) that is experenced at making landrover fuel tanks - good quality work. The price is no where near what after market long range tanks cost.
Peter
Well, I finally got around to removing the tank and the stone guard this afternoon. The bloke who operates the spot welder at Solihull got a bit carried away:mad: , probably the same person who put the blanking plates in the firewall vent openings....
Anyway, lots of rust and crud between the tank and the stone guard. After cleaning up with the wire wheel on the angle grinder, I found several heavily pitted areas and a dozen or so pin holes. Given that the inside of the tank still has a nice tinned coating, I want to have a go at applying something to the outside of the tank to seal the pin holes.
Has anyone had experience using POR15 tank sealer on the outside of a tank?
Are there any other produces which might do the job?
Just found this post, now to find some 'expoxa leak' or similar..Quote:
Originally Posted by sclarke
That's pretty much the same as I found when I pulled my tank out of the County. I used the POR15 Tank Sealer on the inside as directed. On the outside, where there were any decent sized holes (up to a few mm) I first used some 'Knead-it' putty (that two part putty designed for emergency repairs to fuel tanks, radiators etc), then used the leftover POR15 Tank Sealer on the outside, including over the top of the putty. I also cleaned all surfaces, inside and out, including the stone guard, and treated everything (bare metal) with POR Metal Ready (all the POR products seem to be good stuff), then primed and painted. I finished off with some clear 'stone shield' on the bottom half of the tank and, importantly IMO, sealed the gap between the stone guard and the tank with silicone or similar to keep the dirt and water out, which was the problem in the first place.Quote:
Originally Posted by mark2
That was about 2-3 years ago and all is still good.
Cheers, Murray
Before and after.............
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/03/235.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/03/236.jpg
Still a heapof POR15 on the shed floor, hard wearing stuff, although, new tanks from the UK at around $300 for me a pop, I've ordered 2:D
Looks good. I've applied a heap of 2 part expoxy with a putty applicater over the base and sides which were covered by the stone guard. The stuff which comes in a tube lends itself better to wiping on than the knead-it type. Will do a water test tomorrow to see how effective it was. Hopefully I didnt damage the joint between the tank halves when attacking the spot weld remnants with a cold chisel.......Might be time for the POR15 then.Quote:
Originally Posted by rijidij
I can see the benefit of the silicon but its going to make the stone shield very hard to remove in the future if necessary
The silicone was the very last thing I did, so it's really just a bead along the outside edges of the stone guard. It would only be a matter of running a blade along it to sepperate the tank.Quote:
Originally Posted by mark2
Cheers, Murray