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Thread: County fuel tank leaking

  1. #1
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    County fuel tank leaking

    The fuel tank on my 110 is leaking - I think its rusted on the base between the stone guard and the tank.

    What are my options? Will a tank from a RR fit? Has anyone successfully removed the stone guard from underneath and done a successful repair?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark2 View Post
    The fuel tank on my 110 is leaking - I think its rusted on the base between the stone guard and the tank.

    What are my options? Will a tank from a RR fit? Has anyone successfully removed the stone guard from underneath and done a successful repair?
    Yes i have repaired one...
    pull it out, clean off the rust and get the best quality 2 part epoxy that is fuel resistant.

    Clarkie

  3. #3
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark2 View Post
    The fuel tank on my 110 is leaking - I think its rusted on the base between the stone guard and the tank.

    What are my options? Will a tank from a RR fit? Has anyone successfully removed the stone guard from underneath and done a successful repair?
    The stone guard can be removed by carefully drilling out the spot welds. I gave up trying to repair mine when I found the baffles had broken off and were floating around loose (so that was what that noise was!).

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #4
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    Thanks - I will have a go at removing the base. Would rewelding the spot welds be safe, given that I would welding to the tank flanges and the tank body itself?
    Clarkie, I seem to recall that you posted a thread on your tank repair somewhere here - do you have a link to it? ( I cant find it)

  5. #5
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    I'm told a Rangie one will fit as well, make sure you get a placky one as the earlier steel one suffer the same fate.
    David

  6. #6
    SheldonA Guest
    I used some of this stuff;

    PPC - Tank Repair Kits

    Just last week. Cost $114. Have only just filled the tank up tonight. No leaks so far. If it begins to leak I will let you know....

  7. #7
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark2 View Post
    Thanks - I will have a go at removing the base. Would rewelding the spot welds be safe, given that I would welding to the tank flanges and the tank body itself?
    ......
    I would not consider welding it - rivets or bolts coould be used, but on mine the mounting bolts hold it in place anyway (my new tank came without the stone shield so I used the old one).

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_grubb View Post
    I used some of this stuff;

    PPC - Tank Repair Kits

    Just last week. Cost $114. Have only just filled the tank up tonight. No leaks so far. If it begins to leak I will let you know....
    X2 POR 15 is good stuff

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    X2 POR 15 is good stuff
    Yes it is, spot on there Matt....

    As for drilling the spots, just drill the tank bash plate and not all the thru, then use a cold chisle to seperate them... takes a while....

    Link to my post.....
    Fuel Tank Leak, let me put the fear of GOD into you

  10. #10
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    If anyone is interested, I may still have a contact for a guy in Brisbane who makes aftermarket tanks. Same as the tanks you buy from LR places, but for about 1/3 of the price.

    They don't have a seperate stone guard, but are made from thicker material to compensate.

    I had a series 16gal version in my IIA (for sale if anyone is interested), and I dragged it over quite a few rocks without any damage. I replaced that tank only because I got some custom-tanks made by the same guy, that are chamfered to match the chassis.

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