No! Trim is the same as any other vehicle, held there by plastic clips that rip out of the cardboard backing, just as good!!![]()
My passenger window has gone into hiding. It went all the way down, then clunk, clunk click. Then nothing. Trying to bring it back up again just results in more clicks.
Are there any tricks to getting the door trim off a Disco 1 to investigate this problem? Do I need any special tools?
Last time I did this on my 130 I busted about 4 or 5 of the door clips, so I'm hoping that the D1 has an improved system to attach the trim.
Thanks
David
No! Trim is the same as any other vehicle, held there by plastic clips that rip out of the cardboard backing, just as good!!![]()
But if you use the correct V mouthed tool you will minimise any breakages & may even get them all out unbroken.
When refitting, apply a smear of light grease to each pin. Just for the next time.![]()
my bet is the plastic tyre on wheel on the power window winder has failed. You'll need to fix this. If you just stick the wheel back in the track, the window will fail the same way again.
There are some threads on this repair.
OK - I saw some threads on that issue last night, so I'll see what is lurking behind the door trim and decide my next course of action.
this one is an opps, the 'plastic tyre;????
as with some others both sides of my vehicle have had the same problem and have been repaired.
the click click sound is usually what follows after the 3 spot welds break on the toothed section of the scissor lift, near the electric motor, depending on when it breaks will dictate wher ethe window will stop , up or down.
having tried both methods, the DIY re -weld and the replacement mechanism, my advice is go the replacement mechanism, as the running blocks( ex plastic tyre) on the bottom channel are the newer square ones
there are plenty of threads with views and tricks on the problem.
Just to qualify i am talking about the front windows.
john
I used an old carving fork to prise the clips out; worked beautifully
Now that I have repaired all of the window regulators and locks and replaced all of the broken clips from previous repairers' efforts, most of the rattles and squeaks in the car have gone. If the plastic backing tears away from the clip araldite it back on; it is worth the trouble.
the carving fork trick's a good one. Try to get the prongs on either side of the clip before you "prise"
You'll also need to first remove the grab handle, ( two bolts 9 or 8mm I think ), the surround for the door handle ( one screw behind the pull thing ) and the speaker. Release all the bottom and side clips and the pull out on angle from the top. Easy peasy.
I'm trying to find the link (I don't think it was on here) where if the clips break, you can screw a mushroom or washer head screw into the card end of the pin & use that as sort of per original.
It's the end flat that breaks off. ie. the bit between the card & under the vinyl.
When I saw it posted somewhere, I thought it was a really good & acceptable bodge.
Well I got the door trim off (only breaking 3 clips this time) and have found the cause of my lost window. The three spot welds which attach the arm to the geared rotating window lifter have broken
Looks like I can drill out the three spot welds and try to weld it back together again.
I am surprised at how rust-free the inside of the door is after 12 years. There is still rust-preventative goop sprayed around the inside, and it seems to have worked very nicely.
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