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Thread: Seeking opinions on gearbox binding!

  1. #1
    Thommo Guest

    Question Seeking opinions on gearbox binding!

    Hi LR Folks,

    I am reasonably mechanically minded but not too sure about sorting a issue with binding on the lower gears (R380) when changing gear?

    Initially I diagnosed a pressure plate and had clutch/pressure/thrust replaced.

    This certainly made gear changes a lot less of a hassle but did not fix the entire problem (Pressure plate was collapsed on one side).

    I was still having some gear engagement issues and replaced the clutch slave cylinder (it was definitely not allowing full travel).

    Hmmm........gear box is changing better but still not entirely happy?

    Change G/box fluid, removed some black goo vaguely resembling treacle and replaced with ATF.

    Gearbox changing better, usually no probs when cold or at low revs but experiences a binding type hesitation after stepping off clutch when changing into lower gears.

    No excessive whining from g/box. A few minor clunks noticeable (t/box?, axles etc) but nothing excessive. To throw a curve ball on the problem generally if I change gear at low revs going around a corner there is no binding (is CD binding in straight line?)

    I am starting to think G/box bearings? but would this not be a problem in all gears at all times?

    Am I just being too fussy? This is a 2.5 tonne vehicle with a small V8 and relatively low torque output and 175k on the running gear. Is this to be tolerated.

    I cut my teeth on "rock crusher munchies, Saginaw's and top loaders " behind big HP v8's but I am a novice with these R380 boxes.

    Anyone care to offer an opinion (or confuse me even further).


    Thanks
    Thommo
    95 ES V8 Disco 5spd

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thommo View Post
    Gearbox changing better, usually no probs when cold or at low revs but experiences a binding type hesitation after stepping off clutch when changing into lower gears.


    Thanks
    Thommo
    95 ES V8 Disco 5spd
    ok snipped that.. in there is the key bit of info...

    it sounds like your not fully engaging the gear with the clutch fully depressed and its not fully in and your half way between a proper double clutch and an clutchelss change which is causing your baulk ring to do its job as the shaft and gear are not at matched speed.

    how fast are you changing? the r380 doesnt like snap shifts if its worn enough and you try it you can still have the syncro trying to do its job when you lift up on the clutch but this is usually accompanied by the teeth snigging on the way in.

    can you give a better description of the sypmtom Ive quoted?
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
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    Agree with Dave, but also don't forget the R380 on the whole has an 'average' shift quality, and after neglect like you've described,IE condition of the oil you drained out, I would suggest that baulk rings and synchro hubs etc are pretty gummy and/ or worn. The idea at this point would be to run ATF Type F or similar in it for a few thousand K's, then change it, do it again, and then revert to the approved MTF 94 or Castrol syntrans etc.

    You may also find that you will get a better shift quality with ATF anyway, especially in cold ambient temps, in which case stick with it, it was standard oil in these boxes up until 1998 From memory. In 1998, LR introduced MTF 94, mostly for it's hot weather shifting and high load impriovements.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  4. #4
    Thommo Guest

    Question

    Wow, thanks for the quick replies.

    Sounds like you guys are a lot more familiar with the R380 than I.

    To expand my symptoms..........
    When I double (up gear) clutch I some times get a smooth change but not always. At lows speed/revs usually get a smooth change 4 out of 5 times.
    At moderate speed revs (moving off from traffic lights trying to keep up a respectable speed to 60 k's I might get 2 smooth changes out of 5.
    At high rpm (3500+) can not get a smooth change without riding clutch a "tad".

    The problem is most pronounced on the 1 - 2 shifts and lesser on the 2 - 3 shift. Not a problem on 3+ shifts.

    Never have any problems down shifting when double clutching and only get a small resistance "sliding" into 2nd from 3rd but only what I would expect from a 175K box.

    I will definitely change the oil again, at there is quite likely a lot of the old sludge making its way back in from the cooler I would imagine. I agree to stick with the ATF until I get the problem sorted.

    Appreciate your comments

    Thommo

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thommo View Post
    Wow, thanks for the quick replies.

    Sounds like you guys are a lot more familiar with the R380 than I.

    To expand my symptoms..........
    When I double (up gear) clutch I some times get a smooth change but not always. At lows speed/revs usually get a smooth change 4 out of 5 times.
    At moderate speed revs (moving off from traffic lights trying to keep up a respectable speed to 60 k's I might get 2 smooth changes out of 5.
    At high rpm (3500+) can not get a smooth change without riding clutch a "tad".

    The problem is most pronounced on the 1 - 2 shifts and lesser on the 2 - 3 shift. Not a problem on 3+ shifts.

    Never have any problems down shifting when double clutching and only get a small resistance "sliding" into 2nd from 3rd but only what I would expect from a 175K box.

    I will definitely change the oil again, at there is quite likely a lot of the old sludge making its way back in from the cooler I would imagine. I agree to stick with the ATF until I get the problem sorted.

    Appreciate your comments

    Thommo
    I Still think this isn't too bad for a neglected R380 at 175K. I've had NEW ones in D2's behave badly at 15,000km old. Some are even worse than an LT95 for baulkiness and notchy /hesitant neutral - 1st's.
    Change the oil a few times and report back Thommo.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  6. #6
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    unless you get it spot on with the clutch syncro boxes dont like being double declutched... and as the syncro rings wear down the whole lot goes pear shaped and you have to be right on top of your shifts or use a slightly thicker oil than atf to get them to work enough again.

    picking the oil is a dark art..

    try some slow single clutch up shifts at about a medium speed for the gear your coming out of, (use both your primary fingers and your thumb only on the shifter dont choke it) flick it to nuetral and then with the clutch flat on the floor take a bit over a second to slide the shifter gently into the next gear then do your rev match up as you come up off of the clutch. if you know what your feeling for you will feel all 4 stages of the syncros working and will pick up exactly on how fast you can change.

    downshifting in this manner will also help but before you shift allow the vehicle to slow down to idle if not just a little slower before starting the shift.

    let us know how that goes.
    Last edited by Blknight.aus; 13th February 2008 at 08:23 PM.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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