Thread: Slipping out of 2nd and 3rd gear

Hmm - not sure if it is a selector problem... But it is a good idea to take the top off and check the gears are engaging fully, etc...

Take the floor/tunnel out and remove the gear lever
There are two l-shaped brackets on either side of the top cover - remove them, making sure you don't lose the springs behind them, and pack the holes with grease. Remove the brass plug on top and remove the spring and ball inside.
This will make sure the detent balls don't fall into the box when you take the top cover off.

When you have the cover off, select each gear and make sure it is engaging properly. If not engaging fully, you just need to adjust things enough so that it does engage fully.

I know its not the approved method but when my ole girl ('76) was doing that I took the detent ball spring holders off (top of gearbox, easy access) and put a small machined piece of steel behind them. Made to look like a drawing pin with a thicker stem which fits inside the spring and the top about 2mm thick which increases the detent ball pressure.
After 10yrs. is still working ok.
llandro

Hey Next time you post about a series 3 veichle, post it in the series 3 section. we are lonley down here I we need more to gas bag about.


I agree have a fiddle with the detent springs before you drop the box ( Lift it)

I seems to be a pretty common problem with these gear boxes.

Howdy Troy . Mate Olmate is rejecting the series 3 box because it is a series 2a ..... Like humans not all transplants work out

Originally Posted by wannalandy

Howdy Troy . Mate Olmate is rejecting the series 3 box because it is a series 2a ..... Like humans not all transplants work out

did you give it the anti-rejection drugs?

You could try the detent springs on the 3-4 synchro assembly, however that it is doing it in 2nd as well I'm afraid that you may need to overhaul the box and replace the bronze bush that carries the 3rd and 2nd mainshaft gears.

Try everything else first.

What oil has been in the gearbox? The modern oils are not kind to yellow metals in series land rover boxes. (I use Penrite mild EP in mine)

Diana

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

<snip>

What oil has been in the gearbox? The modern oils are not kind to yellow metals in series land rover boxes. (I use Penrite mild EP in mine)

Diana

What's the recommended viscosity ?
Probably should use only a GL4 or dual rated GL4/5 lube. Some 80-90 or straight SAE 90 GL5 fluids use unbuffered sulphur which can be corrosive, but the better ones have the sulphur EP additive buffered to prevent the corrosion.

FWIW Castrol recommend VMX80 which is a 75w-80 GL4.

I think you need to look at a rebuild.Back in my series days I had a 2a and 3 that did the same thing and it was the endfloat thrust washer on both box's that was the problem.If it wears out it won't support the dog teeth in the gears so they just jump out as the whole guts of the box can move foreward and back as power is applied-removed and the load changes dirrection.The good thing is series box's are easy,cheap to rebuild. Pat

See a few Series with holes punched in the dash and a fencing wire loop made to hold them in gear.
Ok in a Series but not so pretty in a RR Sport lol