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Thread: Severity of my servicing issues?

  1. #1
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    Severity of my servicing issues?

    Hey folks,

    Just had my D1 serviced, had some issues arise that I was hoping you could help me rate... money is tight and I will have to fix these one at a time based on how severe they are.

    - LH Rear axle seals leaking... the leak has dumped oil on my brake pads and caliper. Mechanic said its not that big a deal... but I dunno

    - Leaks also identified at Front Diff Pinion seal, sump, auto trans and rear main (?) dunno what he means with rear main...

    - All belts are stretched, they are apparently all still tightish, but at the end of their life, and will not stretch any more.

    Not too bad for its 321,000km service I guess

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by d3funct View Post
    - LH Rear axle seals leaking... the leak has dumped oil on my brake pads and caliper. Mechanic said its not that big a deal... but I dunno
    Easy to do at home and not expensive.

    Quote Originally Posted by d3funct View Post
    - - Leaks also identified at Front Diff Pinion seal, sump, auto trans and rear main (?) dunno what he means with rear main...
    Oh dear. Rear main oil seal on the crankshaft. Not cheap. The engine may have to come out. Some can be done in situ. dunno about yours.

    Quote Originally Posted by d3funct View Post
    - All belts are stretched, they are apparently all still tightish, but at the end of their life, and will not stretch any more.
    Does he mean timing belt or fan belts? Timing belt wil be a bit exxy, too. If the engine comes out for the rear main, do the belts at the same time to save money (as a lot of the stuff at the front will have been removed to get the engine out). Hang on, yours is a V8. No timing belt. Just simple V-belts. Not too hard to do at home. Not as easy as the later serpentine but not difficult.
    Last edited by p38arover; 23rd February 2008 at 05:36 PM.
    Ron B.
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  3. #3
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    i'd be washing the engine and gearbox to see the leaks then decide if you can put up with the leaks first and also let you see exactly what is leaking, it's easy to fix the rear hub seal, and the sump is easy to do in the car, as for the rear main, if it's not pouring out then leave it until it really needs doing, pulling the engine out isn't a small job, nor is pulling the box.
    the belts can be done easily, just buy then all and fit them all at the same time
    Safe Travels
    harry

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    I'll back Ron But with all the leaks youve got Id be tempted to drop the box out leaving the engine in situ and fix the rear main in place then seperate the gearbox from the tcase, rebuild the tcase as appropriate do the rear seal on the box service the box while its out, have the TC spun up for a balance check eyeball the flex plate assembly for fatigue damage.

    new mounts front and rear while your at it and service the propshafts and both diff pinion seals..
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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    Sounds like he is drumming up some work for himself.
    Fix the rear axle seals first and change the V belts. These are both easy jobs you could do yourself or with a little help from a mate.
    Depending on how bad the other leaks are then maybe the front pinion seal would be next, another easy job to do yourself and forget about the other 2. All Landrovers leak so I am told.

    Ian

    ps, my Rangie rear main leaks if I use synthetic oil, does not if I use Penrite. I prefer the synthetic oil so put up with a few spots of oil ruining the bitumen driveway.
    You also might find that just the sump bolts are loose. Mine need tightening every 12 months or so. Takes about 5 minutes.
    Last edited by amtravic1; 23rd February 2008 at 07:04 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by d3funct View Post
    Hey folks,

    Just had my D1 serviced, had some issues arise that I was hoping you could help me rate... money is tight and I will have to fix these one at a time based on how severe they are.

    - LH Rear axle seals leaking... the leak has dumped oil on my brake pads and caliper. Mechanic said its not that big a deal... but I dunno

    - Leaks also identified at Front Diff Pinion seal, sump, auto trans and rear main (?) dunno what he means with rear main...

    - All belts are stretched, they are apparently all still tightish, but at the end of their life, and will not stretch any more.

    Not too bad for its 321,000km service I guess
    G`day ,

    if you have some tools and the inclination you can be talked through most of it and the cost won`t be great unless the reasons for the leaks require more .

    The rear main isn`t feasable to do if your paying someone else and because at the ks when apart bearings would be warranted and could be the reason for the leak and can only be done properly with the engine out .

    If me i`d do the rear hub seal and all entailed , wash the rest down , as Harry suggests to find the actual location/cause of the leaks . This may take a few goes as leaking oil can travel , though it will be noticed that oils from different places will have a different smell , colour and feel if it`s known what to look for . ( eg diff , engine , auto , etc )

    If nothing else buy a new belt for the water pump , though if it fails and the engine gets cooked there`ll be no need to do the rear main seal .

    Belts aren`t all that expensive if bought for length and not as a L/R part .

    Cheers

  7. #7
    porgey Guest

    Fresh oil leak

    I recently purchased a 1999 TD5. The engine looked as though it had been steam cleaned but there was fresh oil around under the battery box.traced it up to the Hydraulic Jack Cheers George

  8. #8
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    For the front pinion seal leak, first ensure that the diff breather isn't blocked.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
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  9. #9
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    Thanks very much guys, I have a Gregorys manual, I'll do some reading when I sit on the can, and evaluate all my options!


  10. #10
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    well the cans about the right place for the gregories, although not as reading material..

    grab the relevant RAVE or workshop manual IVe found some very very interesting discrepencies in gregories when it comes to rover stuff just little things like headbolt tension conversions being wrong (ftlb translated to NM and vice versa)
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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