Twin shocks

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

Nothing on the fronts which are valved 360/80, top and bottoms on the rear which are valved 400/100, but more on the top than the bottome. All mounts are eye.

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Have you got sufficient preload on the eyelet bushes?
There are many vehicles far heavier than ours that get ridiculous mileage from a set of eyelet bushes (many are never changed).

I can't see it making a vehicle anything but ridiculously overdamped. Sure it'll feel planted, but the rear wheels will be losing grip on every little bump and ripple. On the rear it'll also make it prone to oversteer.

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

Yes! Actually I'd forgotten about that! That is a very sweet setup JC, I really liked it and the owner loves it also. It copped a battering on a 3 week desert and great tracks trip that we did and it was great. I'd love the same setup. The great thing about it, is that it just plants the vehicle to ground even on the roughest tracks.

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Cal loves it. He can drive as fast as he likes over most terrain now:o (He IS mad after all!)

Planted is a good analogy, I drove it after the job, and tried to get it out of shape on a 'test' track I have locally. It was a huge change in the rebound control, and felt like a non lifted D2 with standard tyres and good shocks. (As you know, it is LIFTED and has 33's...:cool:)

It was easy to do, just took a little time to sort the mounts as this was the first D2 I've done. Glad you liked it S.:D

JC

Been looking into it on the rear of the 130. Last three trips up north ive overheated / blown / faded to death: stock rear dampers, some old bilsteins (were good but done a few kays) and a pair of pedders I had in the shed... Currently running some cruiser dampers which have held out for one trip but...

not really sure why, but probably weight in tray plus trailer plus we drive to Virilya from cooktown in one long day plus the roads are pretty crap :) Im thinking of twins to try and have redundancy and better damping if/when one starts to fade. Also rather than having heavy custom damping which would be horrible round town can slip the front unit off when not needed.

Been loooking at setups on web, have seen plenty of pictures of the top mounts, even some opposing mounts which I dont like the concept of but Justin would love to see a pic of the lower mount on your setups?

regards
S

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Originally Posted by roverrescue

Been looking into it on the rear of the 130. Last three trips up north ive overheated / blown / faded to death: stock rear dampers, some old bilsteins (were good but done a few kays) and a pair of pedders I had in the shed... Currently running some cruiser dampers which have held out for one trip but...

not really sure why, but probably weight in tray plus trailer plus we drive to Virilya from cooktown in one long day plus the roads are pretty crap :) Im thinking of twins to try and have redundancy and better damping if/when one starts to fade. Also rather than having heavy custom damping which would be horrible round town can slip the front unit off when not needed.

Been loooking at setups on web, have seen plenty of pictures of the top mounts, even some opposing mounts which I dont like the concept of but Justin would love to see a pic of the lower mount on your setups?

regards
S

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I've done 2 130's, and yes, huge difference in reliability and non fading of shocks, even using other brands of shock like Dobinsons and even factory OE ones. Both were quite heavily loaded and in high temps. No issues with the rear end at all.

I will try and pic some, I had the owner of one of them take pics before I had a decent digi camera, will try to get them for you.

JC

that would be awesome. Do you grind off the existing lower mount and use a weld on bracket to the sals tube or is the front mount added to the existing?
If youve already done the hard yards Id be happy to buy your mount / design... rainy Cairns is a little far from taswegia for a fitout however :)
S

twin shocks on the rear is a common mod in Africa on Defenders, too.

A single 2.5" mono-tube damper, ( much lower internal pressures with the large piston. Fox, et al) or a Koni Raid (huge oil volume) would have the same result in a single shock.

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Originally Posted by roverrescue

that would be awesome. Do you grind off the existing lower mount and use a weld on bracket to the sals tube or is the front mount added to the existing?
If youve already done the hard yards Id be happy to buy your mount / design... rainy Cairns is a little far from taswegia for a fitout however :)
S

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Ha. You're in luck S. If you can supply me a hoist for a day, some 2.5mm MS plate, a drill, a MIG, Die grinder, a 4" grinder and an OXY, it looks like I am coming to Cairns in early June, on our way up to cape Trib and Cooktown. I'll dig out the templates and bring em up.:D

Do you want me to supply upper mounts? Shocks? let me know.
At this stage the trip is ON, hopefully there won't be another change in plans:mad:


JC

Ahh very good,
at least should catch a beer eh.

Current workshop is hoistless but new one in Cooktown will have a hoist eventually!!!
Definately interested in sorting it though will pm before june eh.

Watcha getting up to Cooktown?
S

Ah, bugger just realised will be working in TI all of June and July...
will still see if we can work something.
S

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Originally Posted by Dougal

Have you got sufficient preload on the eyelet bushes?
There are many vehicles far heavier than ours that get ridiculous mileage from a set of eyelet bushes (many are never changed).

I can't see it making a vehicle anything but ridiculously overdamped. Sure it'll feel planted, but the rear wheels will be losing grip on every little bump and ripple. On the rear it'll also make it prone to oversteer.

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Quite the opposite, same as what JC has found, stiffening it up in the shocks generates a lot of traction on rough roads and makes it a lot more composed over the lumps, bumps and corrugations.