Gday All
I bought a series IIa lwb for a few bits and pieces. Mainly for the gearbox. i was told that the SIIA is the same as the SIII and that all I would have to change was the bell housing. I expected this as the gearbox was bolted up to a six holden with the conversion. My delema is that I cant get the bell housing off to simply bolt the SIII bell housing on. I have got to the point that 1 too many Bourbons will result in smashing things. what do you suggest??
Thanks
Bazz
Don't forget to undo the nut/bolt on the layshaft, inside the clutch throwout housing. That may be why you can't get the bellhousing off.
I reread my last post several times after I sent it and hoped I wasn't sounding too much like a know-it-all.
If you've removed the gearstick, Hi-Lo lever, 4 bellhousing-to-gearbox bolts, and the layshaft nut (2a) or bolt (3), then all I can suggest is a bigger hammer. I have seen 2 separate gearboxes modified slightly to stop the layshaft spinning in the bearing. One was centre-punched around the shaft, and the other was Loctited together. Both involved a lot of brute force and ignorance to get off.
Corrosion between the two housings can also make it difficult to remove, but not as difficult as that.
Hope this helps.
These things don't normally corrode together . . . too much leaking oil!
I've heard of a SIII bellhousing going onto a SIIA box but I've never seen it done and I'm not convinced it's that simple. (Though maybe it is.) The clutch release is different and the input shaft is too, as you've seen. Why do you need to change bellhousings?
True, but some I've seen have had water in the bottom.
Why? Well, I can't speak for Bazz67 but I put a Series 3 full synchro box behind a 2a bell housing (I prefer the old set- up) in my swb 4cyl 2a to handle better in traffic. Works fine.
Also, the 6cyl and 4cyl have different bell housing stud patterns.
Okay, if you've actually done it then no worries. It's just that there are some funny Landie rumours that come up from time-to-time.
Anyhow, yes, the bellhousing can be a real pain to remove if you stick them together with 515 as I tend to do. I usually wind up using a rubber mallet, and there are also about one or two places to use a big crowbar. They usually break their seal in one spot and then you can work your way around. (Carefully!)
Also, two of the big studs are locating studs and are a tight fit. They may need a good soak with CRC if they've gotten a bit corroded. Let us know how you get on.
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