Loss of Drive - won't select low range

8G`day Dave

The cure , i wouldn`t like to suggest , too many things to consider .

I hope it`s not but the slow down noises and lack of it , *****ed my ears .

I read you`ll check the level , good idea .

If you have one or can get one put a gauge on the auto if that`s the problem there won`t be any pressure at all .

I guess you could remove a cooler pipe and run it , if the pumps being driven there will be oil everywhere though ( but that would be a good thing ) so there`d be a need to have a looker and a key turner .

I`m not familiar with the 300/auto but i`d suggest first taking off whatever inspection plate it has just to be sure it`s not to do with the coupling of the flexplate/converter etc , but i`d expect some noises if any of it was the fault .

If the auto needs to come out the concern will be the kms its done as well as the shaft/spline etc , because at the kms for Zfs in V8s in general it can be a bad time .

I haven`t heard of any 300/auto doing what i suggest but have heard of a few V8s just backing over a gutter with a trailer on was enough for one . The fact the the 300 has a smaller torque converter may be in its favour .

Cheers

to make sure.... (incase I missread anything)

chock your vehicle, jack up both the left or right side tyres.

lock up the park brake and select P on the trans try to turn the front tyre you should get a bit of rotation before the tcase takes up the slack. IF you dont your not in a range, reselect range and try again. then do this in the other range.

that tests proves the functionality of both your center diff and the high/low range engagement, you may need to have someone rock the tyres to get it across ranges.

lock the CDL with the transmission in N and try to turn the front wheel again it should move a little then stop, when this happens release the park brake and you should be able to rotate the wheel again. This proves the integrity of your CDL. you can also check both high and low ranges if you like.

now select low range and start the vehicle DO NOT GET OUT OF THE VEHICLE DURING THIS TEST. Using an outside observer watch the wheels (or if your doing the drivers side eyeball the front and use the mirror to check the rear) select D and then R on the main transmission and the wheels should start rotating. If they dont then your problem is in your transmission. If they do then lower the vehicle after confirming the tcase is definately in low range (or high if you cant get low) by selecting P on the trans and engaging the CDL then rocking the wheels.

Attempt to drive off SLOWLY, if you can hear a ticking grindy noise from the transmission your screwed thats either the pump not priming or failed, the TC lunching itself, a clutch pack or planetry failure, IF you dont hear a thing stop and check the oil in the auto.

Prey for the failed pump/TC as thats relatively cheap to fix.

If youve had any of them fail Id still suggest a total box rebuild as autos dont like metal in the lube.

Thanks Tank, PLR and Blknight for your comments.

Frank - I tried your proper method of checking the auto fluid level and it made no difference what gear I was in, engine running or not. The dipstick showed lots of pink fluid - well over the filling marks - which is what it has always shown on a static check since I first owned the vehicle.

Jimbo - I confirmed this morning with the TC in high and the auto in N I can roll the vehicle forward. Put the auto in P and it's locked.

So I guess that confirms the problem lies in the auto. Is it worth me draining it and taking the sump off to inspect or am I just wasting my time? If so should I take it to an Auto specialist or a Land-Rover specialist?

Unfortunately its seems its got the disease that Bruce Davis calls ZFitis.

Needs an auto specialist. Is this your Cooma tow car?

Regards
Max P

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DiscoDave

Thanks Tank, PLR and Blknight for your comments.

Frank - I tried your proper method of checking the auto fluid level and it made no difference what gear I was in, engine running or not. The dipstick showed lots of pink fluid - well over the filling marks - which is what it has always shown on a static check since I first owned the vehicle.

Jimbo - I confirmed this morning with the TC in high and the auto in N I can roll the vehicle forward. Put the auto in P and it's locked.

So I guess that confirms the problem lies in the auto. Is it worth me draining it and taking the sump off to inspect or am I just wasting my time? If so should I take it to an Auto specialist or a Land-Rover specialist?

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Quoter: Thanks Tank, PLR and Blknight for your comments.

Frank - I tried your proper method of checking the auto fluid level and it made no difference what gear I was in, engine running or not. The dipstick showed lots of pink fluid - well over the filling marks - which is what it has always shown on a static check since I first owned the vehicle.

Sorry mate I gave you a bum steer on checking oil level, after running up and down a few times thru the gears, with the engine running, you place the gear lever in Neutral with the engine idling, remove dipstick, wipe cleand and replace, remove as soon as it gets all the way in and see where the oil level is on the dipstick, too much oil is as bad as not enough, Regards Frank.

Time to take it to european auto specialist, and no I dont mean a white guy, someone who does ZF's, not just holden's and 'coons. :(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tusker

Is this your Cooma tow car?

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Regrettably, yes.:(

Disco Dave
Check the simple things first...The bolt securing the Hi-Lo shaft flang does come loose and allows it jump over the fine splines.The shaft rotates but wont engage under pressure... believe me a pommie land rover mechanic told me so---build problem i believe .Remove consul & ,check...Align shaft and refit bolt with loctit.
Also check in simple terms the plate between the engine and the torque converter,if cracked they will break under load.....there for no drive.
If i am right ,i have saved you a dollar...If i am wrong ..prepare to work plenty of overtime.

Cheers

Faeringelf

Thanks for your input faeringelf but I've stuffed around with this more than enough now - off to an auto shop. (ching, ching, ching...)

No-one I've called will do more than look at it this week, they've told me it's probably a rebuild (ching, ching, ching...) and not going to get done for a couple of weeks. :cry:

If it is the auto that has died, get the shop to talk directly to ZF in Arndell Park. They have a changeover program & the price is very competitive.

PM sent.