TD5 Starter Motor

Yes, use the smaller 3/8 type sockets and long extension bar.
You can't really actually see what your doing, just go by delicate feel...
- I think you may be able to see from the top?, without the acoustic cover.

Thought it was all metric nuts though?

Why do you need to remove the whole starter?

I had the contacts in the starter relay wear out (and not start).
You can remove just the contact block relay from memory, and get an auto elec shop to fit replacement contacts for around $30 mark? (from hazy memory)...

Where did you get the contacts from for the solenoid? Mine were giving trouble a year ago, I spent a few enjoyable hours trying to get the top nut off, and failed.
I did manage to cure the problem by changing the angle of the face of the contacts by loosening the cable conection. But I fear that not having a nice flat face contact is going to burn the surface again sooner or later, and so have been looking for a source of the contacts to have ready.

3/8" drive 15mm socket, 6" wobble bar and a ratchet. Go from underneath, and it is easy. I do a few a month sometimes, and this is the tool combination I use. If the top nut is too tight, I sometimes use a short length of pipe on the end of the 3/8" ratchet to aid leverage.
Hartley; Solenoid contact set is easily purchased from an auto electrician, similar to Nippondenso Hilux/ corona 22R / 21RC starter.

Hope it helps,:D

JC

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by justinc

3/8" drive 15mm socket, 6" wobble bar and a ratchet. Go from underneath, and it is easy.

---

Champion advice. I spent 45 minutes trying to get the top nut off before I found this post. 30 seconds with the wobble bar from above had the nut off and starter in my hands.

Pic of my worn contacts. Looks like a previous owner had the same problem but whoever did the work just bent a contact. Which may be a decent 'emergency' solution considering it has worked for at least 12 months since I have owned it. :o

Two thumbs up to british4wd. I ordered through their web interface mid afternoon and had the parts in my hand by lunchtime the next day before my VISA had even been charged.

I had a slight increase in cranking speed, so I don't want to know how much voltage was being dropped and heat generated inside the solenoid case.

I just spent 3 hours trying to get the top nut from underneath, I had the right length extension, but just couldn't get enough leverage in any position and any combination of pipes. ring spanners etc over the ratchet.

In the end the combination that got it for me was:

1/4" 15mm 6-point socket

1/4" to 3/8" adaptor

3/8" 3" extension

3/8" uni

3/8" to 1/2" adaptor

1/2" extension

1/2" breaker bar

Up through the gap where the oil dip stick is. I was able to keep it all steady against the starter with my left hand, with the 1/2" extension hard against the head/rocker cover, and work the breaker with my right.

Once cracked I was able to run it off with my fingers from the top.

I broke a 1/4" uni in the process ... it gave way before the nut ... it was tight.

Most of the advice is to go from underneath ... and I don't dispute it ... but for me it was from the top that got the job done.

Cuppa time before tacking the rest of the job which I'm hoping will be easier.

I got the contacts and new plunger at Ashdown and Ingram (Springvale, Melbourne) for $51 as a public 'over the counter' customer if that is of any interest.