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I just replaced the drivers side engine mont on a D2 that had dropped enough to cause a significant drone when accelerating in all gears(auto) and was quite harsh at idle. The trick with these mountings is to look up from underneath at the hole in the bottom of the mount . If you can see rubber pushed up hard against the hole, then the mount has collapsed. The new one I fitted is about 10 to 12 mm further up inside.
Now a smooth vehicle again!
JC
I tried to check for differences between my left and right mounts a while ago but couldn't detect anything. I'll have to look for that hole. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by justinc
I've just found that the rubber is about 1-2mm above the metal base, so whilst it appears not to be touching at idle (mine doesn't seem to have a harshness at idle), I expect they touch at higher revs and/or engine torque. I can see a mark on the left rubber where it obviously touches sometimes.
I found that the rubber can be pushed upwards with minimal pressure, as though its only the rubber deforming rather than pushing against any air or liquid pressure. Is this also indicative of a failed mount?
justin, my right hand mount has collapsed and has a bit of wetness under it now too. do u know what a general garage might charge to supply and fit a new one? my car is under 3month warranty still. will this be covered?
Hi Graeme, As far as I can see, it is only 'air' in there. The new one was quite easy to push up too. BUT, the tell tale is the aluminium top mounting to engine bracket, if it is hard up against the rubber surround of the engine mount itself, or has marks where it has been hitting/ rubbing, then the mount is close to, or has, failed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
JC
Hi Simon, I have PM'd you too.Quote:
Originally Posted by simonr23
Yes, the mount will need replacing if it is touching, or shows signs of touching the ally bracket above it.
The fluid could actually be coolant, from the fuel cooler which on earlier Td5's is directly above it...
JC
I am going to climb under mine this Sunday and check the mounts. I have a simular problem that has developed of late. Thanks for posting such a good tip Justin.
Still thinking about a trip up this way?
BradM
My RH mount is showing a darkened contact area all around the centre, although with the engine not running the bracket is clear of the rubber by about 5mm. A new mount has been ordered and I'll be very pleased if this fixes the drone.Quote:
Originally Posted by justinc
Thanks JC.
[QUOTE=BradM;717594]I am going to climb under mine this Sunday and check the mounts. I have a simular problem that has developed of late. Thanks for posting such a good tip Justin.
Still thinking about a trip up this way?
:( Sorry, Trip to the Kimberleys is off ATM, due to reduced time available to go away.
We're going for a quick trip to visit SIL at Thorntons beach, FNQ.
Soon though Brad, soon...
JC
Simon,Quote:
Originally Posted by simonr23
I had exactly the same harshness/drone in my first D2 (2001 Auto). I battled long and hard with Land Rover to get it resolved under warranty and they eventually told me that there was no solution but if one was found, they would sort out my vehicle - never happened.
Bottom line is that some are bad and others are not. The first D2 had the typical 2250 RPM drone from day 1 and was also noisy at 3000 RPM. This and many things going wrong were the primary reasons for me trading the vehicle in on a D2a which I drove firts b4 purchasing it. It does still have a very mild 2250 RPM vibration but that is inherent in all D2's and I can live with it. None of the 3,000 RPM drone though.
They all have some roughness but some are much worse than others.
Cheers,