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Thread: 110 Lift, shock options.

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yorkshire_Jon View Post
    Other points to note...
    Regardless of what springs and dampers you put on, with a TD5 you really should change the front prop for a Double cardon one. If not, under maximum articulation you run the risk of pulling the UJs out of the yoke.
    Out of interest, is that applicable to other 110's or just the TD5 (Can't see why it would be engine specific, so thought I'd better ask!)

    Also, how much are they in the UK now? Probably going to be a second mortgage here, and the front prop might just fit in my big bag next time I'm back there.
    Jeff

    1994 300TDi Defender
    2010 TDV8 RRS

  2. #22
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    It applies to all lifted R380 boxes but to be honest, more so with the TD5 than the 300Tdi. I know the prop comes from the T/Box and not the R380!!

    For some reason the LT77 seems to be more forgiving.

    The "proper" D/C props (all fully greasable) here are £310... and pretty heavy - Not cheap, but reliable.
    Regards,
    Jon

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    you are only compressing them using the low speed bleed, and if you are using a heavier spring rate softer low speed bump valving can be an advantage

    That makes sense mate, but what about the main valving, without putting each set on the vehicle for a comparision how can you tell the difference, is there a spec sheet listing this info somewhere.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by cols110 View Post
    That makes sense mate, but what about the main valving, without putting each set on the vehicle for a comparision how can you tell the difference, is there a spec sheet listing this info somewhere.
    God no, they don't give that sort of information out
    It's always been suck it and see, just like buying tyres, which I reckon sucks....

    Unless you know someone with a shock dyno........

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    God no, they don't give that sort of information out
    It's always been suck it and see, just like buying tyres, which I reckon sucks....

    Unless you know someone with a shock dyno........

    Looks like I am out of luck then, shock dyno`s are far and few between out this way, looks like I am in the suck it and see class.



    OK, after my trip down to the Saudi Border last weekend the complete set up worked perfectly together the ride on the road is harsher than before not not overly so, it handles much better whilst still maintianing a decent quality ride. Out in the desert is where it all really came into its own, in the dunes the front did`nt bottom out once even when the front wheels were a couple of feet in the air after cresting some big dunes into the slip faces, it soaked up corrugations very nicely and maintained much better stability in all conditions, so all in all I am very happy with the set up.

    Out of interest I felt the rear shock temps of my 110 as well as the rears of a STD LWB Patrol, P38 RR with Koni`s and a Disco with Dobinsons after crossing a longish section of rough Subka(salt flat) after previously driving for an hour or two in heavy dunes.

    The results which are by no means sientific were.

    My TDs, hot and uncomfortable to hold, just able to hold without burning.
    Disco with Dobinsons, slightly hotter and only able to hold for 4-5 seconds without burning.
    P38 with Koni`s and LWB Patrol with STD shocks, very hot unable to hold or touch for more than 1-2 seconds without burning.

    This test was just a general indication and does not take in the differences in shocks, the Dobinsons are mid sized between the TDs and the Koni`s, and the Koni`s are similar sized to STD shocks, but are obviously built to a much higher spec.

    The one thing that the test did prove was that the larger the shocks the lower the temp, regardless of it being an oil or gas shock.

    It was a shame there was not a set of OMEs as well for the comparrision.

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