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Thread: How to remove axles and diff gears

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Moruya Heads/Sth. Coast, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandyian View Post
    Thanks guys. Today I started pulling it down, but by the time I raced out bought some stands (wanted something safer than the bricks and bits of wood I used to use in my teenage years playing mechanic) and then discovered I need a 32mm socket for the hub nut which Repco doesn't sell, answered the phone and did my usual work stuff, and all I achieved was jacking and securing the Disco, removing front wheels, removed that darn hub nut, pulled the two 18mm or 19mm nuts from the calipers but haven't yet managed to get the calipers off or the ABS sensor wire disconnected.

    Is there just 2 18mm bolts to remove the caliper or do the two ~14mm nuts close by also need to come out. I have taken out the little phillips head screw that goes through the rotor and now the rotor and caliper moves a few mm but the caliper won't come off. Not sure if it due to the wear on the rotor not letting the pads slip off or if there is more bolts to remove. Turns out brake pads are 80% worn also so may as well replace them at the same time.

    Once the brake caliper is off, do I need to remove the 4 nuts that hold the hub on, and then the axle just slides out, is that right ??

    If it was the spider gears in the diff, I just need to drop the front tailshaft, remove the plate with ~10ish bolts around the input shaft of the diff and from here I can access the spider gears, is that right ?? No need to remove the axles ???

    Really sweating on getting this running for Sunday, I need to replace the floor in a rental property but it's 2 hours drive away and tools aren't going to fit in my wives VW Golf.

    15 years ago I thought nothing of rebuilding a 302 Windsor, pulling carbies down and fitting new kits, modifying suspension etc etc but I worry with newer cars than I'm doing more damage than good.

    Ian
    Ian, sorry mate I didn't read your first post and I assumed you were talking about the rear axle. 460cixy has steered you straight, Regards Frank.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    I picked up another axle centre today and dropped it off with the mechanic, but didn't realise it was going to come assembled. I was expecting a bunch of gears that needed to be shimmed and put together. What came was a fully assembled unit that just needed to be dropped in. Looks like the axles just needed to be pulled back a few cm's to allow the assembly to drop out.

    Anyway it's all at the House of Rover now and I get it back Tuesday.

    Thanks for all your advice, it was much appreciated.

    Ian

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
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    Hobart
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tank View Post
    First, with the transmission in neutral, handbrake off, can you turn the rear tailshaft (full turns), if so you may have a broken axle or diff.
    First jack up rear of vehicle(if you need clearance to get under), setup on secure chassis stands under either chassis or diff tubes, you dont need the wheels off the ground, unless you have to remove the wheels to get at the bolts holding the axle flanges to the hubs.
    Second, drain the oil from the diff centre and inspect for metal.
    Third, scribe or paint alignment marks on universal joint flange, tailshaft and diff flange so as to replace in same position, Remove the bolts holding tailshaft to diff flange, set to one side.
    Fourth, undo bolts holding axle flange to hub and remove axles, they may need some gentle persuasion with a hammer, I usually give them a sharp belt on the end of the flange, towards the centre of the diff along the axle line and they usually pop.
    Fifth, undo nuts on studs around the outside edge of the diff centre and prise slowly forward till off the studs, (heavy) and remove from under car and inspect, Regards Frank.
    Thanks for this Tank but I find that the diff centre is colliding with the bottom of the boge self leveller - can't get the diff centre out past it. Any ideas?

    Thanks,Simon

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Crafers West South Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by sppigot View Post
    Thanks for this Tank but I find that the diff centre is colliding with the bottom of the boge self leveller - can't get the diff centre out past it. Any ideas?

    Thanks,Simon
    Loosen the two bolts holding the Boge and ball joints to the top arms, remove one bolt. Swivel the Boge up a bit to clear the diff centre.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Drouin East, Vic
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    You were teasing us with the comment about the XT GT.
    I had one when I was 19 years old, don't know how I survived but I sure wish I still had it.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
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    Hobart
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Loosen the two bolts holding the Boge and ball joints to the top arms, remove one bolt. Swivel the Boge up a bit to clear the diff centre.
    Thanks bee utey, Got it by lifting the body a little and dropping the axle a little which seems obvious after the fact - thanks to justinc for that!
    Was a little concerned about tension on the Boge and being able to get bolts back in again.

    All done, diff centre swapped and much tighter than my old clunker which has sounded like it might grenade for quite some time!

    Simon

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