Thread: How to remove axles and diff gears

Originally Posted by sandyian

Tried a search but only get maxi conversions and lockers.

I've decided to pull the axles and diff centre myself after the weekends little adventure, see thread Clunk Bang Nothing. It's been years since I've done any work myself. Years ago I was always under my XT GT, but the last 10 years or so I've just given my car to a mechanic rather than do it myself.

I have most of the tools and have always been good with mechanical repairs but I can't find a manual for the Disco II so was hoping someone might know if there's an online manual somewhere, or if someone wouldn't mind running through the stpes to remove a diff centre and axles. Any special tools needed ?? I'd hate top get it almost stripped down only to find to slide the axle out you need to first relocate some special pin or locking system for it to draw out.

I don't know whether the problem is the axle or diff gears yet, and being perfectly honest there was no bang or snap, just a couple of very quiet clunks that didn't have either Dad or myself even taking notice until there was no drive, we both just thought the Disco was bogged.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

First, with the transmission in neutral, handbrake off, can you turn the rear tailshaft (full turns), if so you may have a broken axle or diff.
First jack up rear of vehicle(if you need clearance to get under), setup on secure chassis stands under either chassis or diff tubes, you dont need the wheels off the ground, unless you have to remove the wheels to get at the bolts holding the axle flanges to the hubs.
Second, drain the oil from the diff centre and inspect for metal.
Third, scribe or paint alignment marks on universal joint flange, tailshaft and diff flange so as to replace in same position, Remove the bolts holding tailshaft to diff flange, set to one side.
Fourth, undo bolts holding axle flange to hub and remove axles, they may need some gentle persuasion with a hammer, I usually give them a sharp belt on the end of the flange, towards the centre of the diff along the axle line and they usually pop.
Fifth, undo nuts on studs around the outside edge of the diff centre and prise slowly forward till off the studs, (heavy) and remove from under car and inspect, Regards Frank.

From what I read on your other post, it's your front diff that's the problem, so this is related to the front, although the rear is similar. RAVE has a D2 disc, although I'm not sure if the one for sale in the markets section has it. For the front axle, there are three main steps AFTER you have done the basic stuff (Drain axle, mark and remove propshaft, remove wheels and brakes)

1. Remove ABS sensor - you'll need a allen key.
2. Remove the four bolts that hold the hub to the steering knuckle
3. Remove whole hub,CV and axle assembly in one piece.

do the other side and then you can remove the diff in the normal manner.


Highly possible you've done the spider gears in the diff, which isn't a big problem as they can be replaced without having to dismantle the diff.

Thanks guys. Today I started pulling it down, but by the time I raced out bought some stands (wanted something safer than the bricks and bits of wood I used to use in my teenage years playing mechanic) and then discovered I need a 32mm socket for the hub nut which Repco doesn't sell, answered the phone and did my usual work stuff, and all I achieved was jacking and securing the Disco, removing front wheels, removed that darn hub nut, pulled the two 18mm or 19mm nuts from the calipers but haven't yet managed to get the calipers off or the ABS sensor wire disconnected.

Is there just 2 18mm bolts to remove the caliper or do the two ~14mm nuts close by also need to come out. I have taken out the little phillips head screw that goes through the rotor and now the rotor and caliper moves a few mm but the caliper won't come off. Not sure if it due to the wear on the rotor not letting the pads slip off or if there is more bolts to remove. Turns out brake pads are 80% worn also so may as well replace them at the same time.

Once the brake caliper is off, do I need to remove the 4 nuts that hold the hub on, and then the axle just slides out, is that right ??

If it was the spider gears in the diff, I just need to drop the front tailshaft, remove the plate with ~10ish bolts around the input shaft of the diff and from here I can access the spider gears, is that right ?? No need to remove the axles ???

Really sweating on getting this running for Sunday, I need to replace the floor in a rental property but it's 2 hours drive away and tools aren't going to fit in my wives VW Golf.

15 years ago I thought nothing of rebuilding a 302 Windsor, pulling carbies down and fitting new kits, modifying suspension etc etc but I worry with newer cars than I'm doing more damage than good.

Ian

No , you have to pull the axles to remove the diff centre.
Regards Philip A

best way to tackle it is to wack it on stands rip the wheels off un bolt the calipers and hang them on a bit of coat hanger not by the hose. and un do the whole swival off the diff houseing its 5 or 6 bolts you will need a double hex socket. this will remove the swival and axel in one peice same for left and right side. then mark and remoce the front prop shaft un do the the 12 or so nuts holeing the center in and pull it out easy as that

I know you are flying blind at the moment, so bear with me:

1. Unless other D2 owners pipe up, my reading of the RAVE D2 is that the hub nut stays on. Your hub is like a VS Commodore unit - all in one.
2. The brake caliper is held to the swivel assembly by what looks like two 12 point 14mm bolts. Those 18mm bolts sound like the guide pin bolts- again, like Commodore. Only a 12 point socket will fit onto those 14mm bolts and they can be tight. (Again, D2 owners feel free to add to this...)
3. Before you get said 14mm or 9/16 12 point socket, check to see if the 4 hub to swivel bolts are 12 point or ordinary hex head. The RAVE illustration is unclear on that point.
4.Remember to tie the caliper up during removal so you don't damage the brake line.
5. Remove the ABS sensor carefully.
6. As you said, after removing the 4 hub securing bolts you should be able to withdraw the whole axle/hub/cv assembly straight out. Watch out for the axle case oil seal as you pull the axle out.

I don't want to rain on your plans, but unless you are really lucky, or have a spare D2 diff laying around, you might be pushing it for Sunday. It is 50 -50 that as the spider gears disintegrated, then the chunks have also damaged the crown wheel as they have fallen to the bottom of the case.
I don't know how you are set up for parts where you are - but I can offer these suggestions: Driving on one diff only is not wise as you could do the same damage to the rear diff. Take your time doing these repairs as if you forget something it is a PITA to do it all over again. ( I know that bit from experience) Because the D2 is axle is different to the D1, you can't run around with the axles out- you might get by in an emergency using a post 95 D1 diff. But I'd start thinking on using another vehicle for sunday.

Best of luck

Thanks guys !!

I had the passenger side axle mostly out today, pretty straight forward really, slid out easy and you guys were right, the hub nut can stay on.

But laying on the ground under the car trying to get to the bolts on the diff and the unis is just too hard so it's off to the shop in Albion. Won't have it for the weekend but I guess that's life. A few phone calls had mechanics quoting anywhere from Monday to 2 weeks before they could look at it. If only I had a hoist hey ???

So should I just stick a stock diff centre back in or maybe a TruTrak ?? Some 4wd'ing but not hard core. A few deep ruts, rocks and the like, but nothing to extreme.

Ian

Aftermarket diffs are a lot stronger than the factory gear. Any offroading is hard on the diff centres, and Rover ones are not particularly strong.