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Thread: 300 Tdi Oil leak near oil cooler lines or below and left of fuel lift pump

  1. #1
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    300 Tdi Oil leak near oil cooler lines or below and left of fuel lift pump

    This is a little hard to track down but I have an oil leak that has just started to drip onto the top of the front diff.

    I had originally thought that it was from the leaking diff pinion seal but I replaced that the other day. When oil was on the diff flange I thought that I had installed the seal wrong. But it wasn't diff oil it was black engine oil.

    Michael2 was over last night and he tightened up the oil cooler line couplings as they seemed the most likely area it was leaking from (drips on the bottom of the steel bend)

    The oil comes down onto the engine mount and drips on to the diff. Its about a teaspoon at the end of the day so in my opinion is more that a normal LR leak.

    Under the lift pump to the left (looking down from the top of the engine bay) is a part I can't seem to find in any of the manuals (oil pump?) but it also has a bit of oil around it.

    Hope someone has some ideas.

    Thanks

    John
    Last edited by MinniTheMoocha; 12th April 2008 at 10:05 PM.

  2. #2
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    Fuel line to the lift pump?

    That's a reasonably common one.

    Cheers
    Simon

  3. #3
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    the oil cooler lines are notorious for leaking around the crimp fittings (a lot of us replace with lines and fittings from Pirtek or Enzed) as is the thing you can't identify, the vacuum pump.
    There used to be an excellent how to on here on how to drill out the rivets and replace the o ring in the pump.

    Clean the area's and re-check to isolate.

  4. #4
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    Still here, in common threads
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/common-thr...ned-vehic.html

    Cheers
    Simon

  5. #5
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    Rick130 is on the money

    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    the oil cooler lines are notorious for leaking around the crimp fittings (a lot of us replace with lines and fittings from Pirtek or Enzed) as is the thing you can't identify, the vacuum pump.
    There used to be an excellent how to on here on how to drill out the rivets and replace the o ring in the pump.

    Clean the area's and re-check to isolate.
    After I posted this I drove home 60km drive, I was at the in-laws and just checked it. The oil is leaking right around the crimped end of the connection and seems to be leaking down towards the actual bend that is connected near the oil filter.

    A L/R line is $70 from 4 Wheel Drives in Blackburn VIC how much is a Pirtek or Enzed one. Is it specially made up? Or do they have a stock item now?

    Thanks for helping confirm the problem.

    Also what does the vacuum pump actually do? It is attached to the side of the motor and checking it again after the drive home was fine. No real oil leaks just shiny plastic that can easily look like an oil film especially as it was 10:00pm when I checked it yesterday and it was 11:00pm when I checked it now.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by MinniTheMoocha View Post

    Also what does the vacuum pump actually do?

    Provides vacuum for braking assistance. - no vacuum = very strong right leg needed .

    Mine failed about 60 k out of Cooma at easter.


    Martyn

  7. #7
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    Oil coller lines.

    Just had both mine done by Enzed in Osborne Park for $100. That was for a Defender but was roughly the same for a Disco's I had done by the same people some years ago.
    Less than the cost of replacement LR lines and probably last longer as well.
    Alan.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ATH View Post
    Just had both mine done by Enzed in Osborne Park for $100. That was for a Defender but was roughly the same for a Disco's I had done by the same people some years ago.
    Less than the cost of replacement LR lines and probably last longer as well.
    Alan.
    Thanks for that. Knowing the price to expect helps.

    I am going in to Pirtek tomorrow. Will take in the said lines and get them to make them up.

    Only one leak to go!

  9. #9
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    On my Defender TDI 300 I purchased I think it was 1/2 inch oil resistant hose and just grind off the old hoses and crimp fittings and cut to lenght and slide on the new hose with good quality hose clamps............havent had a problem since.

  10. #10
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    New oil cooler lines

    Quote Originally Posted by 101 Ron View Post
    On my Defender TDI 300 I purchased I think it was 1/2 inch oil resistant hose and just grind off the old hoses and crimp fittings and cut to lenght and slide on the new hose with good quality hose clamps............havent had a problem since.
    Well I could do that but would I trust it to not come off? I am not sure.

    I bit the bullet and went to Pirtek who wanted $170 for both cables. Which is $30 dearer than getting new Land Rover cables. We negotiated and they agreed to match the price. Which is still dearer than LR but I was there......

    They have to cut the tails off and silver solder new crimp ends and they use hydraulic lines.

    Pick them up tomorrow so the 110 is out of action today.

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