For those with "breathy" diesels and oily intercoolers

[QUOTE=isuzurover;1102040]That is the problem. The mist is very fine, and highly diffusive, so will oil up an intercooler easily, QUOTE]

OK I'm 99% convinced I’m going to get a provent. Having done the EGR removal, the cat and center muffler out, chipped, doing the manifold mod, I'm going to vent naturally.

I hate the idea of doing all this work and then putting hot air back into my air intake even though the oil contamination with the provent will be as minimal as can be.

Interested in comments experience etc

Rangie Rover,
I'm not sure if venting the provent to the open will allow it to work. The return/drain line is instructed to be below the level of the oil in the sump, or needs a one-way check valve (if this is in place I guess ur right). If it's a catch can on the return line it must be fully sealed. I just have a plugged tube that I periodically open (it pokes out into the left wheel arch for access).
Just check if you have no none-return valve it's not actually sucking up the drain line when the engine is on, if you have this out to the atmosphere!!!!

Dave

Quote:

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Originally Posted by davros

Rangie Rover,
I'm not sure if venting the provent to the open will allow it to work. The return/drain line is instructed to be below the level of the oil in the sump, or needs a one-way check valve (if this is in place I guess ur right). If it's a catch can on the return line it must be fully sealed. I just have a plugged tube that I periodically open (it pokes out into the left wheel arch for access).
Just check if you have no none-return valve it's not actually sucking up the drain line when the engine is on, if you have this out to the atmosphere!!!!

Dave

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There is no problem with venting the OUTLET of the Provent to atmosphere, which is an acceptable fitment which the manufacturer endorses - for engines which were originally sold in open crankcase configuration like the 4BD1(T).

Just so we are clear, there is an INlet (from the rocker cover to the provent), there is an OUTlet (from the Provent to either to the air intake, pre turbo, or to atmosphere), and there is a Drain line.

The reason the check valve is needed, is that if it was not there, AND the drain connected above the minimum oil line, pressure from the crankcase could go up the drain, bypass the (Provent) filter and out the outlet - into the air intake. This would mean you get unfiltered air in the intake.

Since Land Rovers have the capability to work on extreme angles, I would personally always fit the check valve on the drain.

isuzurover

Mine arrived today.

On the technical side from what I've read there is nothing to stop me venting to the atmosphere on the TD5 motor.

Opps yeah I meant the drain line not the "air" outlet. Would the drain ever actually "suck" if in open air or an "open" (vented) catch-can?
On another note, anyone got a good source of check-valves or a suitable replacement? I want to eventually plumb mine in to the turbo return line - I don't want a plastic one in case it gets a bit warm!

Dave

Hi Scott
Its pretty easy to get the fitting installed into the turbo oil return line.
You just need somebody who can silver solder it.
I gave it to the local diesel mechanic,by time I went to the pub to collect a carton for payment the job was ready.
If you intend letting it drain makesure you fit a container to collect the oil,once they are working you will be surprised on the oil produced.
Thankfully it isnt going thru the system as oil vapour.
Andrew

Quote:

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Originally Posted by scott oz

isuzurover

Mine arrived today.

On the technical side from what I've read there is nothing to stop me venting to the atmosphere on the TD5 motor.

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except it is not legal and makes for an oil stained drive way.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by davros

Opps yeah I meant the drain line not the "air" outlet. Would the drain ever actually "suck" if in open air or an "open" (vented) catch-can?
On another note, anyone got a good source of check-valves or a suitable replacement? I want to eventually plumb mine in to the turbo return line - I don't want a plastic one in case it gets a bit warm!

Dave

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As Andy says above, connecting the drain properly is easy. If you need a one-way valve, most early-mid 80's japanese cars have a nice metal one-way valve in the vacuum line, which should be just the right size.

If you are using a catch can instead of the proper drain, do not vent it, there is no need. Venting it could also cause issues with oil reentrainment.

My M+H filter is vented direct to atmosphere. After reading LandyAndy's warning about the oil output above, I checked and found an oil film at the outlet. So time to do some plumbing I guess!

Does the M+H output contain contaminants and would be best discarded to catch can?

If return is ok, can it be plumbed into the return to sump line above the 1-way valve?

If plumbing to turbo return oil line:-

1. do you just insert a copper 'T' into the line,
2. what size/ diameter is the return oil line,
3. do you need silicon hose because of the turbo heat?

Thanks
__________________
Nigel

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 98-110

My M+H filter is vented direct to atmosphere. After reading LandyAndy's warning about the oil output above, I checked and found an oil film at the outlet. So time to do some plumbing I guess!

Does the M+H output contain contaminants and would be best discarded to catch can?

If return is ok, can it be plumbed into the return to sump line above the 1-way valve?

If plumbing to turbo return oil line:-

1. do you just insert a copper 'T' into the line,
2. what size/ diameter is the return oil line,
3. do you need silicon hose because of the turbo heat?

Thanks
__________________
Nigel

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I assume you are talking about the DRAIN, which is a 1/2" outlet at the very bottom, and not the gas outlet, which is a 1" outlet on the side?

The drain should be plumbed to either the sump or the turbo oil drain. On Iggy's TD5 I brazed a brass barb fitting to the side of the turbo oil drain (after drilling a suitable size hole into the steel section of the drain tube (on a TD5 the top section is steel, the bottom is a braided hose). The turbo oil drain will get hot, but the hose to the provent should not get hot enough to need silicon.

Oh and incidentally - thanks for being one of the few who lived up to their end of the bargain and returned the field test element! :twobeers: