Thread: Clutch slave pushrod - Oh the shame

Didn't replace the fork, all I was doing was replacing the slave cylinder.

I guess I'm looking for things that I can do to check what's gone wrong before taking the gearbox off, something I really don't want to do.

Clutch was replaced about two years ago, think that new fork went in then, but not positive.

Cheers
Simon

the fork 'shouldn't' come off the pivot, as it's clipped to it in much the same way (using a metal clip) as the pushrod is to the fork.

In my experience, if the pedal goes rock hard, it usually means the pivot is punching through the fork and jamming............

Had another look, fished the fork forward with a coathanger, it's flopping about all over the place, so I'm guessing something has come adrift.

So, what do I do now?

Or, what do I need to get and how long is it going to take me, taking into consideration that my workshop is on the side of the road.

Cheers
Simon

Sounds like the fork has come off the pivot ball. (or the pivot has broken or fallen off )
Damned if I know how you'll get it back on without moving the bellhousing/gearbox/t-case backwards.........

Are your clutchless gearchanges up to scratch ??

Can you get a small mirror in to see what is where ?

Clutchless gear changes.

I'm just trying to work out how to reverse park without a clutch.

Maybe not.

1. Now, need advice, how do I best support the gearbox and tcase while I shift it back?

Plan is to split them and pull gearbox back so I can get at clutch fork, I'm halfway through - got distracted by a fella coming off his motorbike towards me while I was underneath. He wasn't hurt too badly.

2. Do I need to support the engine? Somewhere I read that you need to put something under the engine to stop it from dropping forward when you take off the gearbox.

Cheers
Simon

Originally Posted by abaddonxi

Clutchless gear changes.

I'm just trying to work out how to reverse park without a clutch.

Maybe not.

1. Now, need advice, how do I best support the gearbox and tcase while I shift it back?

Plan is to split them and pull gearbox back so I can get at clutch fork, I'm halfway through - got distracted by a fella coming off his motorbike towards me while I was underneath. He wasn't hurt too badly.

2. Do I need to support the engine? Somewhere I read that you need to put something under the engine to stop it from dropping forward when you take off the gearbox.

Cheers
Simon

from memory I think you're right, have to support the front of the engine.

It's definitely easier to split the t/case and gearbox to manoeuvre without a transmission stand (or a hoist or pit) when doing it by yourself, but you'll need guide rods to get the t/case back onto the g/box without damaging the seal. The couple I made are around 200-210mm long. Look like 3/8 UNC, but could be 10mm ? (pitch gauge is in the car ) Cut the heads of bolts off, grind a slight taper and cut a slot in them so they can be screwed out once the t/case is in place, oh, and don't lose the dowels between the t/case and g/box.
Also have to disconnect the t/case lever assy if you haven't already done so and watch out for the little nylon top hat section bushes, they are easy to lose.

<edit> the locating pins/bolts are 10mm.

Isnt there someone else in the Kingdom to give you a hand?

The slaves are revolting!
The slaves are revolting!

Finally got it done.



Last time I got under the car there was a motorcycle accident through the intersection on which I parked the Land Rover. The young fella, unhurt except for cuts and bruises, came off the bike coming into the intersection, the bike went one way and into a parked car, the boy went the other way.

I was lucky that I was parked on the side of the road opposite the parked car that the motorbike ran into.

Somehow, I lost some enthusiasm for crawling under the car.

And its been damp.

I finally got my courage up and split the gearbox from the engine.

Idiot error, the clutch fork pivot pin had come out its socket. I replaced the fork anyway, the old one was starting to deform and had a tiny crack in it.

I also replaced the bearing, the old one was, well not thrashed, but getting sloppy.

Now what exactly did the mechanic replace when he did the clutch less than 10k ago?

Cheers
Simon